PandaBear
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Quote:Originally posted by Setanta on 22October2002
When I got my skyline set, I noticed that the antenna doesn’t extend out as far as the other ones I have. It’s a different frequency to the normal ones and I have a few controllers spare. Does anyone have any info on whether switching it with a longer one is viable? And what the proceedure might be?
Same here :smiley11:.
Hosted our first BCG race on the weekend, running out of freqs so I snuck out the G24 350Z on 57MHz (yeah, Boost Button!!). Only noticed then that the black controller’s aerial is about 60% the length of the other Compacts’ antennas (27 & 40Mhz).
Had some reception problems too at the far corners of the track.
Tamiya has got a 1/10 Mini (M03L) chassis just out too… but it doesn’t have a letterbox. But if you’re handy at surgery or making stickers, that might be fixable! :smiley1:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/mchassis/58295.html
Quote:Originally posted by FLiPSiDE on 25October2002I’m neither trendy, never been to or aspired to go touni, a rich kid (well im not poor, but not thatyoung now.. 🙂 )or anything like that. i work in a trade andown a new MINI Cooper S
Sure u are gonna get the occasional fashion victim buying any new car thats fashionable.. but i’d just like u 2 know we’re not all like that, and besides most will only get acooper, not anS:)
also like to inform u incase u were mistaken, this isnt like the new VW beetle.. its not style over substance.. its one of the best cars on the market period. And no, before someone says so.. i dont think its overpriced sure its small but u cant compare it quality wise to anything in its size – class
I also own a classic mini.. and had to have a new one, and willhave the char-g to match asap:)
Hey there – Nice Wheels!! Too right – the ‘S’ is the only way to go -Love that letterbox! :smiley10:
All the wanky schoolkids with P-plates (that’s about 90% of the Minis on the streets) wouldn’t know what a supercharger is anyway… although that new P-plated CLK500 we spotted last weekend was pretty tasty still. Beetles, CRVs, RAV4s – Lotsa phat riceburners around town, all those asian kiddies spending daddy’s money… might be just Melbourne!! :smiley2:
Was looking for something “fun” earlier in the year. Have nothing against the little Mini, its a nice enough car (if a little bit too ‘retro’ just for the sake of being retro) and the build quality is par with BMW but it just doesn’t suit the current lifestyle though… ie just a bit hard sticking the golfclubs & family inside. That snuffed our thoughts on the Golf IV too; Integra didn’t look as good as in the pix and the Celica is getting a tad old. MG too then thinking about recycling the famous “TF” name.
Didn’t think I’d have enough fun for $ with any of those, so went and found meself an MG to play with instead – on OLD one. Nothing as retro as getting the real thing!
No, don’t use sandpaper – the scratch will be too fine. You want to deeply scratch the axle so that it has splines in it; I’d use a stanley knife to draw a few lines just on that end bit.
Haha, lets get some perspective here…! I think:-
1) Caine is talking about those $2 babytoy helicopters/jetplane/superman that hang from the ceiling and then buzz around in small 2′ circles…
2) Jamie’s “planes on string” is control line flight…
am I right??
Control line is pretty fun if you know what you are doing -need lightning reflexes too. It doesn’t just go around in circles y’know… the plane can fly the other way too. Or in circles, butterflies (fig 8), boxes etc etc.
You need more than 2 AAs to charge dual-batt bits, btw…?
Ya, you’ll have to yank it out (nothing holds it in, just friction) then scuff it up. I’d scratch some lines on the axle then try use epoxy to glue the whole thing back.
Superglue does not stick to metals well.
I’ve heard rumours before that its either Skippy or PharLap… :smiley11:but you didn’t hear it from me.
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 24October2002The difflock has failed on one of my wheels, but the wheel wont come off the axle…..
You’re trying to fix it or trying to pull it apart for spares?
To fix, why not just glue the wheel to the gear?
Quote:Originally posted by hangbot on 25October2002i’m so retarded – the kit is actually G-25
ya, G23 is the Skyline History set, its not booster.
Running “with boost on” is same as top speed of non-booster car with same 2.2 motor.
Weight shouldn’t affect top speed… have stuck a 10c piece to my bonnet before and it didn’t make it go much slower. Acceleration a little down, cornering is the most affected (lots more) but that’s about it.
You didn’t leave your TX switch ‘on’ for long time whilst you were painting, did you? That’s enough to drain the batteries. The difference between using half-strength AAs and fresh ones is marked!! Change the AAs and try again.
Quote:Originally posted by GT-ahh on 24October2002yeah i was going to put a solenoid so it pushes against the ground at the front, but the core would probably interfere with the steering magnet.
Haha, no need. “Nature” has done it for you anyway… the other day I found a little pebble stuck on the chassis nook behind a my front wheel. Steer it one side and it caught the tyre, jamming it up. Does the same thing, no?
(Heck, dunno about you folk but when I do burnouts in 1:1 the steering is always fully cocked either side…!)
Quote:Originally posted by GT-ahh on 24October2002a line locker stops the fron wheels from moving so you can do phat burnouts on the spot. the term “line locker” comes from locking the front brak lines in real cars….
Why bother? Put sticky tyres in front, hard ones (or even *none*) on the back and it’ll do donuts on hardwood without even trying. Heck, I couldn’t even drive in a straight line!!
Haha, what do you think about “tether cars” then? IC-engined cars that run in rings around a stake. They reach up to 200mph!! :smiley3:
TRU, KMart and maybe even Myers if you’re lucky.
No, I’ve seen them too – “freeflight” thingies that just do circles indoors (this is pre BCG times, of course).
But they’re all too fragile for ‘common’ usage, no company in their right mind would dare sell these on the massmarket. You can just about bet, the first day they’re available there’ll be some idiot (1) trying to fly it in a outdoor field during a hurricane and (2) quickly returning the thing all smashed. :smiley11:
Trust me… you don’t know how stupid some customers can be – until you’ve hung out long at a hobby shop.
I’m trying to get some 120mAh NiMH cells in – as soon as I’ve rounded up enough takers to put in a wholesale order.
Pricewise I’m hoping will be about A$6 ea., + postage.
Interested?
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 24?October?2002Leds don’t put out any heat z-beam.
Err… yes they *do*… its just a matter of how much current you pump through them.
LED = diode, so basically they act like a straight piece of wire and if you put a normal LED straight across a battery it shorts it out.
Little lithium cells won’t have enough current to damage a LED, but if you put it across something bigger it’ll definitely warm up!! My best attempt was (accidentally!) connecting a clearwater dual-colour LED across 12V… wow, I got a FLASH, then POP and even SMOKE!!! :smiley10:But oww.. that was a $5 LED.
Couldn’t find them anywhere in Myer Melbourne’s toy dept (huh, they dare call *that* a toy dept??) but TRU at Melb Central still had a few on the shelf today. Only G1, 2 & 4 only but.
Quote:Originally posted by Shypo on 24?October?2002Pandabear, nah man im talking bout the little balls of “meat
” on the BBQ meat loversYa, exactly… that’s what they call “pepperoni”… :smiley1:(neigh?)
Ya, the real thing sells for A$40-50 only anyway, why risk the headaches?
Haha, I just picked up a Bit Racer tyre set. Stuck the set’s soft in front and hard on the back and it was DRIFT CITY!!
Ya, cannot use the kit tyres in front, they are too sticky and it’ll just do donuts.
Can see that the rears are slipping all the time too, whilst running on hardwood surface. Car goes a little slower than with sticky kit tyres all round.
Quote:Originally posted by KittyKatSmack on 23October2002Do you need an E Tag for that????? I don’t want to pay the toll!!!!!
Sounds like you’re a Melbournite, Kitty…?
In big RC terms that’s called a “slipper clutch”. Its there mainly to protect your transmission gears (eg buggy jumping) but on a BCG its pretty useless.
Ball diffs should never be set loose enough to slip, you’ll flat-spot the balls and groove the rings.
Why do you want your bit driving around like its got a busted clutch anyway?? :smiley1:
bB hasn’t got that much room underneath… better to go for a fastback or Accord wagon.
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