PandaBear
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Spareparts… blackeye:
From the box, looks like its BCG-style Left/Right rudder (can pulse it) + power control.
They aren’t all that flash… TFTR fellas tried them out in 2003 I think. 🙂
Dunno about the Epics but the P2K2 can be geared
down to about 5.5:1 on touring rubber tyres
on a large track.The Monster needs to rev so 6:1 is about it.
Reinforced black wheels can be soaked in acetone to dissolve the superglue (& paint!).
Quote:merc blue how bout the epic binary 2 outlaw pro vs the epic binary 2 outlaw stock vs the trinity monsta horsepower ?
which one?Epic & Trinity run by same guy, all stuff come from same factory. :dead:
Binary has split magnets which is illegal for US ROAR stock class.
Usual stock standards are Monster (high revving) or P2K (more torque).
Just adjust your gearing to suit the motor’s style and either one
will go just as fast – if you know how to drive them to their max.“Pro” motors just means you pay a few bux more for a dyno sticker.
Quote:Roj’s Hobbies in Fairfield (Vic) usually has Slowsticks for around $70 – $80.Now $85, damned… 👿
Kero:- can the camera do video? 🙂
What’s the max payload on those SlowStick things… or the Li/BL Not-So-SlowStick in your case. :blush:
Fantastic pic, Kero!!
You can buy a new set of S3003 gears for < $5… 🙂
Which shop, bigted?
Quote:Won’t be able to try it out until my motor comm gets a bit scarred though.Cut your comms more often & you’ll cut them less.
Better to do many more ‘light’ skims, rather than doing a deep cut.
More your brushes bounce on a un-true comm the more they arc and
eat away the copper, so you need to do the deep cut.Surprisingly :smiley16: the “Mini Inferno” HAS ARRIVED IN OZ!!! (& EARLY too)
Yep, Dawn Trading was showing them off.
Comes in white or yellow (wheels & wing).
Quote:ahhhhhhh thought that mite be the case, lemme guess stock motors aint allowed ball bearings either are they.For true stock sanctioned racing – no.
But some clubs are allowing stockers retrofitted with BBs to
reduce maintenance cost for racers; there ain’t much difference.Don’t bother using racing stock motors for bashing as they’re
generally a very inefficient design. Stock motors today are
optimised for RPM or torque, not power efficiency as there’s
plenty of runtime from 3300/3600 batteries to waste.Because they’re inefficient stocks run very hot.
You’re better off with a mild mod… it’ll have the same
performance but be a lot more efficient & longerlasting.Tempe is electric only, please don’t bring nitros there.
The narky noise-sensitive neighbour is there just waiting for more infringement ammunition to get the coucil to shut the facility down.
Quote:Does anyone know how this lathe can skim a sealed stock motor ?There is an option part that you can buy that will let you skim the comm on a stock motors without having to take it apart, Just wondering how this works because the air vents on the can are pretty small and wasn’t sure how the tool could get in there.
For old-style (non rebuildable) stockers, the can is sealed.
The Hudy lathe (with the layshaft) can poke its cutting bit
in through the endbell AFTER YOU TAKE OFF THE BRUSH HOOD.These days, modern stock motors are Rebuildable so you can take the
comm out and lathe it like any other mod motor. You will get a
better job as the comm don’t have to run on its (worn?) bushings
in the can when its being cut.Taking off the brush hoods are a real p.i.t.a; plus old motors will
never cut it on a track against a modern stocker.Hudy’s lathe without the layshaft is cheaper and great for mods/rebuildables.
At TFTR (Templestowe) you do get occasional guys turning up with 1/18ths.
No rules for those, so most get placed in Mini class. If its a modded 1/18ths you’ve got a good chance to outrun the Minis – just don’t let them catch up and RUN OVER YOU. :blush:
Biggest handicap with 1/18 is need to carry the race transponder. Its a pretty big chunk of deadweight and will affect your handling.
GIGO & that’ll teach ya to eat junk food. :blush:
Anti-stutter cap can be anything from a 10V 680uF & up. Probably can’t buy anything less than 16V or 25V these days.
Might want to make sure you’ve got 3 filter caps on your motor too, just need 103 or 103 ceramics or tagtams.
Futaba RX should usually be pretty tolerant… blackeye:
Toss out the big cap on the powerleads, it don’t do nothing for your issue.
Instead you should get an extra servo lead (or the red plug from your 4-cell battery box) and wire that to the capacitor instead; plug that “stutter-stopper cap” into the BATT slot in the RX.
Anything AE is usually a rebadged LRP.
I think latest basic LRPs are now “AI” in that they don’t need once-off programming… instead you need to “program” it everytime its turned on.
Rooster is pretty old hat.
Super Rooster is good for trucks; its a huge & heavy beast.
Not sure if there’s any good Reversible ESCs that Novak makes with low motor limit etc – otherwise I’d have one by now. 🙂 Just acquired an LRP F1R, getting worked over on the bench.
If you can open up the motor (“rebuildable”) then yeah its possible to press out the bushings and replace them with ballbearings.
But buying motor ballbearings ain’t cheap & its not easy to push bearings into motor cans. You’d be better off buying a budget machine-wound mild mod motor to start with.
Quote:Does anyone use these to setup their 1:10 tourers ? Just wondering how effective they are and if they are worth the money. I’ve seen a few of them being put up for sale.Hudy brought out a new Setup Station last xmas, so
some original owners are upgrading.Quote:I just use a cheap $5 jaycar vernier caliper to do my measurements but don’t know if I can achieve more with a setup station.How do you use your verniers?
You can measure all the arms’ length etc etc, but due to
manufacturing tolerances & running damages & wear-n-tear
the actual settings at the wheels will differ.A setup station allows you to dial in your car to the exact
settings at the wheels… its like a wheel alignment.It lets you record a baseline chassis setting before you
start tweaking, and once you’ve found a sweet setup you
can ‘record’ it and copy it to another identical car.Venom Fireball… consensus says its crap.
Peak & Orion stuff should be ok.
Why 21t?
Might do better with either a 23t or 19t rebuildable, there are races that use those motors so they’ll be better performing than something that’s not commonly raced.
-
AuthorPosts
