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What voltage is arriving at the motor once you do a FET mod?
I hear a Plasma Dash draws approx 4 amps at 2.4-3 volts. If a FET mod is supplying 4.8-6 volts, it’ll draw about 8 amps, right? Are AAA NiMhs capable of throwing that much amperage?
I have relays, wheels, bearings, direct drive, and i used to have a yellow/green motor (killed it with a really long run, blew solder all over the magnets:D).
i now use an all black motor i found in a $2 Go-Lo tamiya 4wd knock-off, its quick, cool, lower draining and prolly 3/4 as fastI have found two different chassis, and used both.
One has a live rear end, the other is solid.
The “St Flair” 57 chev, and the “Corps” jimny have the solid one I prefer.
The “Land” Subie has the live rear end chassis.
iono what other cars have what chassis
$20 is reasonable, just remember its gunna cost to get them going quick, I’ve spent about AU$33 on speed upgrades for my AU$20 chevy and a suspension kit i don’t even bother with any more. Thing caused more hassles than, having no suspension.Network Video, near 7-11 and IGA on springvale Rd, they don’t stock race win’s (last time i was there) just this one oddball item
the (n) is the MSN “thumbsdown” sign
has anyone managed to get anysort of reply outta these guys?
do the rechargable 1800’s make a difference over, say, NiCd 700’s (as i have) other than runtime.
I used 2 sets of the 700’s one after the other, one time on a yellow/green motor and it blew the solder all over the inside of the case it got so hot.you get boost by forcing the forward stick really far forward. my favorite char-g-esque (?) car
been to the site, emailed the dude, no reply (n) bambow
I got 2 deceased tin racers, 2 living, and a race-win. Love the race-win, 4 relays, crumbiest damn tyres i ever did see. but it is good fun.any idea where to get tyres, other than carmoworld for the race-wins?
I spotted the Jaycar clones at the Springvale Rd & Highway store.
I gotta agree trialex, I have one of those enertec turbo cars, got mine at Big W, love it.They were about AU$30.
They were in either a pressed plastic pack (like the HSV’s) or a box, bit vague now 🙂I had two…
They come out of the box with dual batteries and without the trailer go like stink. The first one was great, for the 2 hours the steering worked, so I returned it, got another one, and it wouldn’t even charge.
While they go, they are really good.
BTW the tyres are pretty damn good, hard and tready and they fit those HSVs perfectlyI find my “race-win” 1:16 auldey is better fun than either. about the size of a shoe and as fast as my hotted up racetin, straight outta the box.
It has turbo mode, and if it wasn’t let down by pitiful tyres, id play with it even moreI heartily recommend the australian tinracers.com site, you can’t build your own relay set for the price they sell theres at (trust me i have tried).
One of my friends ran a tin racer on 7 batteries for a bit, but it just sorta spins out and doesn’t do much. ended up dropping it back down to 4 in total, 2 stock 2 extramine has realistic scale piston slap, but i REALLY like the way the munro handles
Bill, Keysborough Victoria, 3 outta 4 days I come on here
They are approx. 1/32 sized, but they use a different chassis than the normal tinrace cars.
I found them in a video shop in springvale (vic)
The 2 relay mod is great, but for the same performance, and less cost (and hassle) just run the car on 6 instead of 3 volts (ie add another battery pack)
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