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Why is status soooo important?
yes! anyway you can give product detail specifics?Part no etc?
The springs I have on my bitcharg right now are from a japanese mechanical pen, and they are stiff! The car just isnt heavy enough to move em! It looks great but the tension seems to interfere with my steering a bit. I definitely need smaller diameter springs that are soft enough to give at least some play to the front end.
Also, the springs I have screw up the magnetic pull on the steering… Have you tried the springs yet? Even just a loose staple segment (not even a full staple) that attches itself to the lower front chassis screws up my steering, until I unstick it.
Pics. pics! pics?
I would love to see pics of ANY of your tracks! I wanna get ideas.
deejay40
Hye prabbit i was wondering how you got to be a gold member with two stars?? Just wondering? Dave
thanks Derek, I took my bit apart but the magnet wasnt off center but after put it back in one piece the problem got alot better. thanks
Those look stupidly retarded, i would never waste 15 dollars on those when i could get a bullet for the same! Dave
how do you charge it a few times? I tried to charge it again right after the first charge is done, but the charging indicator light didnt come on. so i guess it wouldnt let me charge again until I used some of the power stored from the first charge.
YES!!! I have a video of my Bit Lar-g in action. Check it out
Go to
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/BitDigi.html
AndClick on “Bit Lar-g MONSTER TRUCK Video”
Yipppppeeee!
Thank you FitBMX
DJ
Yep, that’s what it should do. Don’t make it too soft because then it won’t turn at all!
Coarse Sand(like the stuff used by train modelers) works with the drift axel better than say carpet or a hard surface. I just put those “vertical line” tires from the Bit Racer set onto the fronts so that they roll over the sand and not push through it.
Still, for the drift to work well… it seems a different material would have been better used for the rear wheels than that hard plastic they are made of. And there is not much of a weight shift in the car for it to drift like Initial D anime or even a computer racing game.
My best drifting…so to speak…is utilizing a sheet of acetate in the corners(w/Medium tires/Orange Gear/2.2motor)….and I throttle full deep into the corner, let off the gas while turning (which causes the car to slide sideways) then gun it again(while its still sliding)… it takes a little practice to do consistently, but I’ve done some cool corner slides and came out ahead in a race. And I’ve also had it done to me(they used me to bounce off of LoL) and came out ahead.
-Floyd
If you can keep the movie size tiny–like around 1.0 MB, it should be no problem. Maybe we can do some sort of “Bit Char-G Home-Movie-of-the-Week“…
Hey ZeroBXU,
I got my bitcharg to run circles at high speed in my bathroom sink / halfpipe last night! At the highest point of the circle (parabola?) on either end, the car is almost completely vertical! Like a wall ride almost! Its looked way cool anyway. If I manage to record it, would you post it?
Unfortunately, It only works in reverse. Because of the extreme transitions in the sink (mine is small), there isnt enough clearance in the front. Thats my guess anyway. Either that, or my rims are too big in front. I just recently replaced my front rims with rear rims, so that they match.
deejay40
Option C is to just upload it to the Bit Char-G Gallery on The Admiral’s Lair.
One more thing I noticed from the pictures–make sure the antenna on the Lancer is close-to-vertical.
Ok
- Subaru WRX (blue) =NO to the “cripple capacitor”
- LancerEVO(RED) =NO to the “cripple capacitor” ( and still studders at 2 meters)
I have a loctite zexelSE and a pennzoil zexel SE and both dont have one. The range on my loctite is about 3 meters and my pennzoil is about 2 to 2.5. I was really hoping for a cripple so I could lengthen the range. I bought mineone week ago.
Help me please. Sometimes the Pennzoil SE stutters even at close range making races unfair.
Sorry, that didn’t work…you’re pointing to a file on your computer that we don’t have access to (but you can see it because you do have access to it :smiley2:). You need to either
A) put it on aweb server that will allow you to link to the image (many will not allow that unless you pay). Or…..
B) send it to Derek (my plan when I have some images)
Hey no problemo guys. I just need some suggestions on how to fix the Lancer … my GF is getting a little discouraged…. i will
1) Switch the motor
2) Switch the battery
And i will keep you guys posted…
Actually, I was looking at the chassis (not very closely) and thinking that it might be easier to chop it in front of the motor and extend it there…maybe I’ll try with my dud Bullet to see if it can be done, but I have other projects to work on first.
I shaved mine down which helped on the jump landings but the steering is too sensitive now. With hard tires on front it used to slide the steering when full speed but they seem to grab now with softer stab bar.
-Peter
Charge it a few times. This will not hurt the battery. I’ve done it a bunch of times. And make sure you have fresh bateries in your remote. A got at least 5 minutes using a 3.0 motor when I did this.
If you really want good time get a NiMH battery and make a 3V charger like I’ve previously posted. I’m not kidding you when I say I drove my car hard, over jumps and around turns, throttle on all the time for 20minutes and it still had pleanty of power to go over the jumps! I’m not kidding. After 30 minutes it started to get a little slower but it still would drive around at abouthalf speed.
-Peter
to ylexot:
I was thinking the same thing….
as far as I can tell, it might not be impossible to cut the bit chassis behind the steering assembly, in front of the battery and extend the chassis to fit longer bodies.
I am thinking about attempting this on my 40mhz bullet
Taiyo is the manufacturer. Its products them license to other world-wide companies and distributors, such as Tyco.
I have two models, the one in 27Mhz and other in 49Mhz.
About the same on mine.
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