Admin

[Admin]

Well… to be honest, I never thought about doing it commercially. I’d probably figure some sort of barter system–i.e. if you send me a body shell set, I’d ask to keep the body shell that doesn’t get used, or something like that. It depends on what you want done. Let’s just say very, very cheap for two reasons:

1. I’m not a professional.

2. It’s a labor of love (for the cars–not you, deadk6 :smiley2:).

Would you be supplying the body shell? Or would I need to track it down? Those things are tough to find! Give me an idea what you want done to it. I’ll try to sketch out some sort of screwy JPEG mock-up, and we’ll go from there. Since I’ve got blank decal sheets, and access to a color laser printer, I should be able to pull off nearly anything.Why don’t you post me your ideas over at The Admiral’s Lair message boards, since this is semi-business oriented.

[Admin]

Derek could you please please please try and help me out also. I have been trying so hard and im a bit-less right now and hate it. I gotta be able to find that peice! Someone has to be nice enough to sell me one, i dunno but please could you help me. Thanks, Dave

[Admin]

What a saga, Dave! :smiley3:

Saw your “wanted” post in the buy/sell/swap area – hopefully someone can come to the rescue :smiley4:

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

I already went through all this, check out my other post about it. I tried soo much. Things like the vhs spring, no cigar, tried some wire inside of a phone line, no cigar, tried bag wraps from the grocery store, the wire in there, no cigar, nothing worked but then i found my orignal wire, tried to put it on back how it was and ended up screwing it up soo bad that now i am asking for someone that has the whole magnet rod with wire, i will purchase it from someone. Because imessed the rod up also in the process, and i dont want to buy another bit just for that one peice. So please anyone with extras or not-wanteds, please post and i will e-mail you about a price. Thank you, Dave

[Admin]

I want one, dammit! :smiley2:

Good news for people in Australia! Someone from Dymocks (the bookstore) was reading this thread and has emailed me. Apparently their big George Street (Sydney) store (the one with all of the art/craft stuff next door to Grace Bros) has hot wire polystyrene cutters in stock. Price is AUD26.90ea (approx USD13.00)and it can cut foam up to 4 inches thick

Yippeeeee!

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

You’re absolutely right. The first link is broken. Sorry about that! Here’s a message thread from Sigma Automotive, that may answer some questions. It’s more detailed than the original link.

You might want to browse all the Bit Char-G message boards you come across–most of them have a thread (or several) about modifying Bit Char-G body shells.

[Admin]

Thanks, Zero!

That first link didn’t work though, and this still doesn’t tell me what materials I can use. Any suggestions?

Stormincow

[Admin]

aquila,

where do i find, or how do i make decals like the ones u have? I don’t have a place that sells anything close to this size here. hope u make em so i can do the same.

ryan

your squad looks pretty tight

[Admin]

The final board is now complete and it will fit any bit char g it is still priced 15GBP so if anyone is interested mail me. Oh and the battery packs are 2.50GBP.

[Admin]

My Trans Am Gta is done, so is my dodge ram. As well as my track.

Images for all are at

http://communities.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/bitcharggallery.msnw?Page=3

tell my what you think

dan

[Admin]

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – some days you just shouldn’t get outta bed :smiley2: There must be something screwy going on with the database at the moment….

Anyway, below is a copy/paste of the post in question, so you don’t have to wait any longer (or get further frustrated with dodgy links! :smiley5:

========

You asked for it – and you got it!After a number of posts (on here and the M3 board) about how the steering mechanism in a Bit Char-G works and potential problems/fixes, we decided to push forward the scheduled photo session of front end disassembly and the steering mechanism.

Ladies(?) and Gents – Here is a direct link to the photos that I’ve just uploaded. Yes – eventually these will become part of a detailed technical article – but for now you’ll just have to browse them in conjuction with the following brief notes:

Warning : DO NOT attempt this operation unless you have either:

VERY steady hands, a #0 Philips screwdriver, and a sharp eye to avoid damage

OR

A qood quality soldering iron to repair any damage

OR

Spare cash lying around to buy a new car!

Not trying to scare anyone off as this *IS* a simple procedure. You just need to be patient and careful if you want to get through it with your car functioning at the end 😉

===========================================

Pic#Description

========================================================

1Remove the main body of your car

2-4Slide off the clear receiver cover

5-6BE CAREFUL. Some of these wires are simply single

copper stands. They are VERY easy to break!

7-8Locate and remove the front end locking screw

9-10The wheel assemblies will fall out

11Here we can see the magnetic steering assembly in

the nude

12-13 The red coils are essentially tiny electro-magnets

that attract/repel the centre assembly to make the

wheels turn in and out. Clever, huh?

14-17 This is the bit that physically turns your wheels.

NOTE: If the steering trimming switch on the bottom

of the car no longer appears to work, you’ve

probably managed to dislodge the shiny element from

its holder. A tiny dab of PVA glue will fix that

once and for all!

18-24 Just play the tape backwards and your car is in one

piece again.

Have fun, kids 🙂

===========================================

[Admin]

Hi Dereck,

Maybe third times a charm? Link didn’t work again.

Also just to clarify, i really want to know if you can take the wheel off the axle to more easily clear the built up hair from inbetween the wheel and axle.

🙂

[Admin]

I don’t have the verbage done yet. But here is the promised photo catalog of the Foam Cutter. Complete with a diagram of physical dimensions.

http://www.angelfire.com/art/floydspalace/micro/cutter.htm

I post a small movie(in short order)of it in action…

-Floyd

[Admin]

(“Rondarl, disengage the lurking cloak and open a channel to the colonies”)

Hi there, waiting for my booster cars to appear in the good old UK here.

Could you take the electronics out of an OEM and put it in a bit-char, and then run more than 4 bit-char.

Steve G

4 peices of track completed 146 to go

[Admin]

Hehe

Following you around mate.

I have some Taiwanese people staying with me at the moment and I have asked them to send me some Bit Char-g’s over when they get home along with some tuning gear if its available so I will let you know…..of course I am really evaluating all this stuff for my nephew to use :smiley2:

[Admin]

Thanksgtvolv,

Very helpful:smiley15:I will drop them a mail this evening.

Thanks for your previous post Derek dunno where it has gone tho…….lost in the bowels of the net somewhere.

My friend and I actually collected ours today(sunday)and had a race round the car park near where I live and I have come to the conclusion that I need more speed

Cheers

J

[Admin]

I just received my first car yesterday (blue Impreza WRX 45 mhz set G-16) and after playing with it for about ten minutes I tore the controller apart to perform the removal of the capacitor. Upon opening the case I found no capacitor between the resisitors. I also have the yellow approval sticker on the chip. I measured the range and I can get between 15-17 feet of distance, not as good as some but much better than others. I boughtthe car off ebay from stella models (which I would recommend, 8 days shipping from HK to Idaho) in Hong Kong and the only numbers on the packaging I can discern are the kit (G-16) and the UPC (4904810 684070) so I doubt these will helpfor identification purposes. Maybe they revised the controller recently?

[Admin]

http://www.toddsmodels.com/index2.htmis the place my friends have gotten their smaller bats from..

b.

[Admin]

Hello,

to complete the wiring informations, I’d like to add that together

with the red (V+) wire, in the same spot are also soldered the

“other” single wires coming from both the steering magnets. The wires

can be distinguished from the ones going to the L and R pad because

they’re “stained” with white paint.

All the “tiny wires” are very difficult to solder: you may find that

even if the wire is firmly soldered, it apparently does not make

contact: this is because they’re painted with an almost invisible

insulating coat, that you may need to scrape off…

[Admin]

Quote:

Originally posted by MrDigi on 12?May?2002
What if I have a 57mhz w/ no cap, but has really short range and constant studdering?? Any suggestions?

You could post a scan or a photo of the cirtuit board somewhere, so I

can check the differences between your remote and the ones I have…

[Admin]

G’day,

I got my Tin-car from: http://members.optushome.com.au/tin-car/

And they were great to do business with. I got the “modify package” which includes the relays and everything to make the car go 35km/h. Postage/payment was quick and simple, and they’re very helpful for info through emails. You’ll have to email them to see if they ship overseas.

[Admin]

Sorry guys… the re-jigging of the forums is playing a bit of havoc still

This is the URL you’re after….

Cheers

Derek
(Back home after a 4hrs driving to wish his mummy a happy Mother’s Day!)

[Admin]

Well to take the front wheels off, you start off by taking off the body. Then you have to take off the clear plastic peice. Then there is a small gold screw, take it off. Then pop open that black peice that was held on by the screw you just unscrewed. Then take off the bar that holds the magnet, but be gentle and careful. Then both wheels on each side just come right out of their holes. Putting it all back together is pretty tricky. You have to put the wheels back into their slots. Then drop the bar that holds the magnet and let the top of the wheel stand things get into the holes of the magnet bar. Then take the square plastic peice you took off and clamp it back down on top of the wheels. Screw the screw back in, put the plastic back on, clamp the body on and you’re ready to go. Dave

[Admin]

Thanks, the link doesn’t work though.

🙂

[Admin]

I had a different problem that required front-end disassembly, too. Here’s the thread that helped me out.

[Author]

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