betty.k
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oops!
was worth a try :8ball:
this thread should help with the steering:
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14131bridging the pins on the motor terminal side of the fets is ok, if you notice they all solder to the same pad on the pcb. just don’t bridge the other side. :8ball:
mr01’s and 02’s both fit the same rims, it’s the body that dictates the offset.
i guess you could fit rubber tyres to worn gandini’s but i think all of us treat the rims as throwaway items once the foam’s worn.
they’re not really the prettiest of rims but for me form follows function:smiley2: :8ball:
more pics courtesy of namuna:topstuff: :8ball:
i’ve only owned mr01’s and 02’s. i’ve driven a mad force and an ma010 too.
my vote goes with the mr02, simple design, easy to work on, easily tuned, great handler and plenty fast:topstuff: :8ball:
full left: 3.5 ohm
full right: 5.18k ohmi might have my left and right mixed up but i think that’s it.
attached pic is of iw servo pots. green wire on the right terminal and the yellow wire is connected to the middle and left terminal. :8ball:
not sure how to diagnose a dud crystal but i know they are fragile items. dropping them on the ground can damage them :8ball:
got a short vid:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10012&pos=0the central heating was on at the time so flight conditions were a little windy but that’s one of my best flights to date!:D
i made another cool discovery.
the trim adjustment wasn’t enough on the steering channel, it would spin to the left even with the trim all the way right.
so i popped open the tx and found that there’s a trimpot for every channel inside.:smiley14:
they’re easily accessable from the front panel after removing a little plastic window:8ball:that’s nearly a mars bar! 😀 :8ball:
bought it on ebay. shipping was a stupid $37 but the auction was $10 so the overall price was worth it.
here’s another from the same seller:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-RC-RADIO-CONTROL-FLYING-3D-3-Ch-HELICOPTER-PLANE_W0QQitemZ270001327820QQihZ017QQcategoryZ110026QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemi’ll try to get some vid soon:8ball:
the tail motor measures 4mm in diameter compared to 6mm for a bit motor, tiny!
and yeah, it’s very stable provided there’s no wind. you gotta be gentle with the controls or it can get a bit wobbly and crash but it’s counter rotating design makes it naturally hover:8ball:
codesuidae has done an excellent zzmt fet mod tute:
http://members.cox.net/codesuidae/FetModMT.htmlfor true 1/4 aaa’s contact a member called “namuna”. he’s a member here but rarely here. he’s more frequent at bitpimps and tinyrc, if you have trouble getting in touch with him lemme know.
he just got a whole lot of 1/4 aaa’s, prices are reasonable:topstuff: :8ball:the tail motor is smaller than a bit or zip motor, more like the size you find in modern pagers/mobiles. if it does burn out i got plenty of little motors i can use instead.
man, 6 channels! you’ll be guaranteed exciting footage if you film him every time!:D :8ball:
nice work!
i think everyone’s first “charger” looked like that! or worse:8ball:
:smiley5: i can still hear that sickening crunch!:8ball:
yeah, we’re mostly mini z here. mainly because we don’t have anything like your radio shacks here. and the rc’s they sell are nowhere near as sophisticated as xmods, think “nikko”:D
i used to have xmods and race them on large and small tracks, once dialed in they put up a damn good fight against a mini z!
and in a collision the xmods win every time!:eek: :8ball:
Dangerous Dave wrote:what is a FET stack? I’m guessing it’s just parallelling more FETs for even lower resistance and more current capability.correct.
Do you guys physically ‘stack’ the additional FETS on top of one another?
yup, then bend down the pins and solder them to the pin underneath:smiley14: :8ball:
wow! looks like they got more stuff in hong kong we don’t!
so ken, settled back in ok?:8ball:
actually i have a 3pk with the miniz module and it doesn’t work with iwavers or epochs.
same goes for a 2pl:smiley13: :8ball:i’ve personally never used any other motor than the radio shack motors in mine, never had a need. they seem to do the job well with a single lipo :8ball:
is it perhaps the placement of the caps that make this new motor a poor fit?
if your motor is getting hot enough to smoke then technically it’s overgeared and you’ve killed it! overheating a motor can ruin the magnets, oxidise your brushes, cause the insulation on the winds to melt and cause shorts, melt the endbell, melt solder and i’m told it can even warp chassis’:smiley2:
i’d choose between lipos and hot motors, i personally wouldn’t run both. i’d stick with the st2 arm or a kyosho xspeed or anything relatively stock. :8ball:
g’day brudda, welcome aboard:beer:
first up, what’s that yellow thing on the left of that pic? is it a track driven micro??:smiley3:
batteries and motors are as good as they ever were, my favourite cells are the standard tomy 50mah nicads. if charged properly you should get up to 20 minutes runtime.
the best motors i ever used are the xtrek pro motors:
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10389&highlight=xtrek+motorsproblem is no one’s really making this stuff any more except for the ‘merikan zip zaps so it’s hard to find.
but there’s always ebay, sometimes toyeast (http://www.toyeast.com/index2.asp) or get friendly with a yank!:)those 1/4aaa cells are still taller than they are fat.
one exception is the zzse cells. they are 2 x 1/4aaa cells packaged together. they are by far the stubbiest cells i’ve seen. you can get them in the current range of “cars” zz’s. the “cars” zz’s are not zzse’s but a redesigned (non propo) chassis sporting the fabled zzse 2.4v cells!:topstuff:looking forward to seeing some of your projects:smiley2:
p.s. iwaver is a company that makes rc’s, started out making cheap copies of mini z’s.
have a scooch through our forums, you’ll find all the answers you need. :8ball:
first i recommend going up in voltage, either 3 nimhs or 1 lipo. although depending on what electronics you’re using you may need at least 4.8 to power it. 3.6v is as low as you want to go with an iw pcb.
see how that goes first.
if that doesn’t cut it you’ll need to splash out on the motor/gear upgrade kit.from slowest to fastest:
green
red
yellow
orangei recommend using the orange motor as it’s by far the most powerful (speed and torque).
so (at a guess) green gears, 3.6ish v and the orange motor will bring you near epoch speed.
you will probably have to fiddle with gear and motor combos to get it exactly right.
out of curiosity, what exactly is the stock speed of an epoch?
f.y.i.: my zzmt is running green gears, orange motor, iw pcb with (single stack) upgrade fets, 3.7v lipo and it clocks 7kph on the tamiya checker
once i know what speed we’re looking for i can do some trial and error ’til i get it close, i have the other gears and motors.:8ball:
yeah, what he said.
let’s say you wanted a 1:28 scale “smart car”. the exsisting mini z chassis’ would be too big.
but a mini z lit would be juuuuuust right:smiley2: :8ball:
looks like a fun little plane! veeeeeeeery tempting! :8ball:
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