betty.k
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i spent some time and money on this baby recently. there were a lot of parts that had worn out or needed attention.
all the ball ends and ball cups were replaced with new ones, tightened everything up nicely. after discovering that there are ball end dust covers i made a whole bunch and installed them. it’s not hard, just cut out a heap of little foam squares and punch a hole in em. 😮
replaced the bb’s with a duratrax set, they feel nice and smooth.
the outdrives and dogbones were pretty worn so i got a full set of mip cvd’s for it. damn they’re nice!
the front end got a new shock tower to replace the split one too.
i recently got a new radio so i installed the fancy fm hrs rx in this. the manual was pretty clear that i can only use digital servos with this rx so i bought a towerpro digital hi torque servo. it’s really precise and has plenty of grunt and holding power for the heavy mt steering. only cost $23 too! yes, new!
i picked up a bargain speedmind esc (looks like an unlabelled futaba esc) that’s handling the drive, it overheated at first but i installed some heatsinks to the fets and it’s all good now.
it’s pushing a group 20 motor arm (20t) which isn’t too fast but it’s got balls and it’s fast enough for me.finally i gave the body a good wash and applied some new decals to better reflect my rc alliances. what the hell is a penzoil? 😆 (spewin’ i’m outta ausmicro decals!)
well that’s enough yakking, have a squizz at this!
inner gada da vida
gotta reprezent
something for the competition to look at just before i flatten their azzez! :8ball:
so a little while back i decided to iron out some issues with this thing.
the stock gear ratio was 10:1, too high for a crawler so i checked out the tamiya gearbox range. i settled on the “high power gearbox”, can be set up as either 64.8:1 or 41.7:1. i went with the latter, i felt it would be low enough.
i needed 2 and they took quite a lot of modding to fit them in the chassis. in fact that back end took about a week to modify in order to accomodate the new gearboxes, it’s pretty much rebuilt but you can’t really tell by looking.
i bought an intellect 1200mah pack to run it, i estimate i’d get at least 30 mins of continuous run time from it, more than enough.
i also wanted the camera and it’s battery mounted in the chassis with the rest of the guts.
it was also too low, kept getting caught on grass and the old gearboxes didn’t have the grunt to get out of it and the plastic tracks offered no grip.
not very becoming of a tank!i softened and bent the idler wheel axles and raised it a full inch.
then i set about cutting and glueing 152 little blocks of foam rubber to eack section of track (just as painful as you think it was!)now it tears through any terrain within reason. the combination of grip, torque and clearance has made a night and day difference. i can crawl up a wall and flip on my back if i want now. 😮
it’s no speed demon, top speed is walking pace.so i got it to walk the walk but it still needed to talk the talk! so a little weatherproofing was in order.
i bought a replacement lens for motorbike goggles (made from lexan!) and made a window for the camera. i screwed it onto some more foam rubber for a watertight seal.
the rear needed a cover and i made one from a maglite case, was the perfect size! sealed it the same as the window and it’s easily removeable for hot weather.
i also plugged any holes in the lid and i just use a blob of blutac around the camera aerial and i’m happy to report it can withstand a heavy vertical downpour without a drop of water getting in! it can also go through puddles up to 1 inch deep without issue, 2 inches for short periods.
here’s my favourite little hidey hole, i can drive it there without leaving my seat and it gives me a full view of the driveway and street.
so there ya go, probably a month’s solid work from start to finish but worth every second to me. :8ball:
here’s a little animated gif ph2t made recently. it’s an 11.1v lipo evo, the smoke is coming from the motor:D :8ball:
