betty.k

[betty.k]

there are a few of us in melbourne but we’re spread out pretty good. me an merc blue are in the eastern suburbs while ph2t is in the south.

i’m not aware of any specific mini tracks but we sometimes race on a 1:10 track at templestowe :8ball:
http://drive.to/tftr#

[betty.k]

does RM and MM refer to engine mounting? rear and middle?

yup, rm = rear mount, mm = mid mount

does this really affect handling?

probably, the motor is a big part of the cars weight. i personally like the mm configuration, brings the center of gravity more in to the middle

or mostly autoscale body choices?

there’s a difference in wheelbase between mm and rm so you have to select a body that matches. :8ball:

[betty.k]

aawwwwwwwwwwwwwww! what a cutie!

they’ll be hysterical in a month or so;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

wow! what a blast from the past!! and i’m not just talking about the sproingy aerial either!:D

great job there man:topstuff: :8ball:

[betty.k]

if you do want an xmod that’s guaranteed to work you could ask a ‘merikan like sg219 to buy one and test it before shipping.
radio shack are having some great sales at the moment so if you’re gunna the now’s a good time.

the 02 (iwaver or kyosho) is highly regarded as a track car thanks to it’s nice low center of gravity and tunability. i wouldn’t go saying it’s the “best”, a lot of people are starting to favour the 4wd ma010 but for me personally i’m sticking with my 02.

kyosho vs iwaver? well iwaver is a copy of kyosho. they’re about 1/3 the price and about 1/3 the quality. that’s not to say iwaver is crap but if you can afford it go with kyosho.
but i started out in the 1:28’s with an iwaver, it’s not as nerve racking working on a cheapy compared to a kyosho:D
iwavers are a good way to get started in 1:28;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

can’t see any pics, but what can’t you do to a zz!

there’s upgrades like gears , tyres and motors which can be fun for a little while.

but the real fun starts with modifications! dual cells, suspension, body mods, fetmods, etc. the list goes on!

have a read through the forums, you’ll get all sorts of ideas.
this place opened my eyes too:
http://www.tinyrc.com/qfm/racing/
:8ball:

[betty.k]

yeah, xmods are plenty tough and can be fast enough too:smiley16: :8ball:

[betty.k]

off the top of my head energizer e2’s are those titanium cells, not rechargable.

duracell make some ok cells, i’ve got some 900mah’s that run pretty well. i noticed in the supermarket recently that they have 1000mah cells now;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

i used to be an aussie xmodder but i’ve since moved on to mini z’s.
if you can’t find any local xmodders then just race anyone, i used to be able to hold my own with 1:10’s on a track;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

this is boring, go out and pour some oil on that road:D :8ball:

[betty.k]

this is boring, go out and pour some oil on that road:D :8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve been kinda impatient with my learning, i really should take the proper time to learn better but it’s fun to see it in the air!

as a result i’ve trashed the main blades and i’m almost through the spare set that came with it!:D
trying to find compatible blades online was tricky so i went to my local rc flight shop. he stocks the range of venom air corps stuff so i got the closest looking ones.

got em home and found them to be too thick for the mounts, so i had to grind em down a bit to fit.
that worked so i fired it up.

turns out the new blades were a different pitch to the stock ones and wouldn’t provide any lift even at full throttle:D

but all is good now, i reshaped the blades where they attach and bent them to give a sharper pitch and i’m back in the air!
i’m yet to take it on a full flight but the new blades seem more stable than the old ones:topstuff:

now i just gotta sort out this gyro business and i’ll be enjoying it more :8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve been kinda impatient with my learning, i really should take the proper time to learn better but it’s fun to see it in the air!

as a result i’ve trashed the main blades and i’m almost through the spare set that came with it!:D
trying to find compatible blades online was tricky so i went to my local rc flight shop. he stocks the range of venom air corps stuff so i got the closest looking ones.

got em home and found them to be too thick for the mounts, so i had to grind em down a bit to fit.
that worked so i fired it up.

turns out the new blades were a different pitch to the stock ones and wouldn’t provide any lift even at full throttle:D

but all is good now, i reshaped the blades where they attach and bent them to give a sharper pitch and i’m back in the air!
i’m yet to take it on a full flight but the new blades seem more stable than the old ones:topstuff:

now i just gotta sort out this gyro business and i’ll be enjoying it more :8ball:

[betty.k]

so when you say “drift around” what direction are we talking? side to side or turning (rudder)?

got a good link to some gyro info? :8ball:

[betty.k]

so when you say “drift around” what direction are we talking? side to side or turning (rudder)?

got a good link to some gyro info? :8ball:

[betty.k]

the new heli landed!:smiley16:

it’s been a lotta fun now i can control it better, it was pretty sketchy at first!
i removed all the useless stuff like the fake exhaust and tail rotor. and i find it flies better without the cockpit cover.

i’ve moved the rx/controller sideways to make space for the camera which brings me to my questions.

this is just a copy of a better heli so the manual is a bit hazy but it eludes to there being a gyro. i have no idea what one looks like and i’m not sure it even has one but it could be the silver component i point out in that labelled pic?
the startup procedure is doing something, i turn on the heli, the green/red lights blink. i then turn on the tx and the green led blinks for a couple of seconds and stays on. supposedly the blinking part is setting the gyro.

if it is a gyro then which way should it be oriented? did i make a mistake moving it?

also in that pic i point out 2 trimpots. one is for centering the rudder by differing the motor speeds but i have no idea what the other one is. i’ve fiddled with it a bit but it doesn’t seem to make any noticable difference. what is it? :8ball:

[betty.k]

i think he’s hinting for some pics;) :8ball:

[betty.k]

old school cool! 😀

so what chassis’ do they fit? 01/015/awd only? they look narrow :8ball:

[betty.k]

went mudding today!:8ball:

[betty.k]

mo’ money mo’ money mo’ money:D

just borrowed ph2t’s hudy micro tyre truer. i had some atomic rear rims that i wanted to put foams on (alloy, plastic white dish). and i got a bag of gq rc products foam donuts for z’s.

the truer is a breeze to use, i had 4 tyres mounted and trued in under 10 minutes. you just gotta use an adequate power supply, at first i tried using a 12v plug pack but it didn’t have the current to spin it fast enough. so i used 2 x 7.2v stick packs in series and it was all systems go!

so now i got me matching alloy rims with my tyre choice all around.:smiley14:

i was also breaking the front body clip too often so i got an atomic alloy one for mclaren bods. fits well and does what it’s supposed to.

[betty.k]

found this:
http://www.racewear.com.au/product/subcategory.cgi?sc=34
:8ball:

[betty.k]

lookin’ good:smiley2:

just a tip, i’d only go with an alloy first (servo) gear. i once got a full set and they’re not smooth at all. i even managed to break my alloy first and second gears!:D :8ball:

[betty.k]

i was lucky and recieved the small 5g kit as a gift.
i got it from a guy who said he got it from the guy that imports the stuff into aus. it’s apparently used most in the motorcycle industry, i think “gt motorsports” (makers of plastex) is a bike company. can’t give you any more info other than that.

i’d do a google search, it’ll come up somewhere:smiley2: :8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve never seen plastex in a retail shop but then again i’ve never looked :8ball:

[betty.k]

i think ca glue (cyoalphabetonate!) is superglue, but don’t quote me on that.

i used to put a blob of superglue into the stripped hole, poke it down there with a toothpick and shake off any excess. you don’t want it to be full, rather you want to coat the walls of the hole. let it dry then tap a new thread with the screw.

but if you wanna do it like it was new again then get yourself a “plastex” kit:
http://plastex.home.att.net/

i’ve used it on lotsa things like mini z bodies, plastic gearboxes, even my heli is wearing some!
i seriouisly can’t recommend it enough, it’s a plastic factory in a box! paid for itself many times over! use many, buy lots!:D :8ball:

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