betty.k
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i believe you!funny thing is you’d be doing kids a favour by blowing their chance at building this!
if you scooched up real close to the telly you would have seen the fine print at the bottom of the ad, final price is $1068! you’d be better off spending half that at a local hobby shop and getting advice from the guys behind the counter.
it’s not a total write off though, each issue is like $15 or so. so think about it, $15 for a truck body, $15 for a tx or rx, etc. and if you wanted to be a real prick you could have bought 4 copies of issue 1 (introductory price $2.99) and had yourself a set of tyres, rims and inserts for $12!
i’ll be running on concrete in the middle of summer! i think i’ll go with medium and hard!
no biggie about the tyres only, but if you ever find some i’ll take em
i got an electric pure ten still, missing some parts like shock bodies and a some pins but i’ve got the parts that you’re likeley to kill likw knuckles and a belt.
it was my first 1:10 and a good choice, it’s tough! real tough! when i go my hpi’s i took the pure 10 out for a last run with the intention of killing it. i couldn’t!
something wrong with that upload, view the pic here:
http://image53.webshots.com/53/7/87/91/470278791CHDQVP_fs.jpg
Edited by – betty.k on 07 October 2005 15:40:42
oo, oo!! i got another idea. thin cardboard would be good on the foam, you could maybe use blu tack or double sided tape.
then you can print out cool sponsor barriers like the attached one (let’s step into the way back machine sherman!
)thank gawd! i refuse to use anything else on the rear of my z and i’m down to my last pair!
but this leaves me in a pickle, i never knew there was different hardnesses, what have i been using in the past?!
and anudder question, do they sell just the tyre only, no rim?
i hear ya on the space issue, my makeshift hose track has 1 metre wide lanes and me an’ ph2t are still smacking into the sides!
but garden hose is a great barrier for 1:28’s, it’s high enough to keep the cars in (most of the time!), cheap and it’s nice to the bodies at full speed.
although at templestowe i used to get nice pretty yellow scrapes all over my cars, the hose leaves icky brown smears!
(rolling eyes emoticon!) dude, did you read what i said? go back and have another look.
even better, check my reviews of the 2pl and iwII tx’s
Edited by – betty.k on 03 October 2005 18:01:25
i use a futaba 2pl for my 1:10’s and kyosho stuff. but it won’t work with iwaver stuff or epoch’s
thanks also to bithed, he sent me the motor mount in the first place
i figured it would be better than the iw stuff.that chassis looks fast! should be some stiff competition next time we meet!
here’s a pic of the body that leon sent me. i’m not sure if it’s the finished product but you get the idea
without working experience, hey? reckon they’ll take someone that’s enthusiastic but untrained?
topcad diff should be cool. i’m running a 3 racing and it all works well together (f1 bod, foams, diff) no rubbing anywhere.the bodycould even go lower but that sounds like work to me!
thanks for the answers gang
now i think about it, it’s probably a logical thing. when a driver sees the back of a car he immediately knows it will go forwards when moving, away from him. and when he sees the front of the car he will instantly assume it’s coming towards him.
in the heat of the race, having to decide whether a car is coming towards you or going away can be a dangerous distraction.
i don’t think it’s a weight issue, if anything it’s a cost issue, you need twice the fets for 2 directions. and in nitros adding reverse means a special separate set of gears. THAT wouldadd weight.
thanks again!
sounds like a winning setup a!
trust me, don’t use a single spring on the rear, foams on the rear, rubber up front. much more forgiving of bad driving (like mine!)
yeah, rcmart just ran out of the rears (wide). spewin! they’re my number 1 favourite reartyre for the 02!
i’m not 100% but i think ph2t may have a spare. send him a pm or email. otherwise, ask a yank
those finned heatsinks are from the stage 2 motor kit and you need to drill your own holes in them.
i’ve said it before and i’ll say it again.
running lithium batts is pushing your luck. running an 18t(???) turn motor is asking for trouble.combine the 2 and you’ve got a recipe for disaster. even a 1:18 esc will struggle under that load.
and after all that my 4 cell would still cream you on a track!
