betty.k

[betty.k]

looks good man!:smiley2: purple is a tricky colour, one false move and it looks gay! but you managed to stay on the butch side with that one!:D
next time you do window decals don’t cut out the middle bit until after it’s on the window. it will maintain it’s shape better.:8ball:

[betty.k]

i had an order shipped via surface from toyeast once, it took EXACTLY 8 weeks!:D i was literally turning on the pc to email them and complain when it arrived!:blush::8ball:

[betty.k]

that would work but i’m saving that as an absolute last resort. i really don’t want to find room for another bulky batt pack in an electric car:8ball:

[betty.k]

always select airmail shipping with international orders, surface mail arrives in 6 – 8 weeks!:shock:
my airmail order from tower took about 11 days to arrive. in general us orders take a couple of days more than chinese orders.:8ball:

[betty.k]

aha!! i had a sneaking suspicion that might be the case. and you’re right, the cap on the batt leads does nuthin for me!
so am i right in assuming i should go for a 25v cap (approx 3 x 7.2v)? 1000uf a good start?:8ball:

[betty.k]

Quote:

i think he will keep that 1 as a shelf item wouldnt you?

no!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

good work! that turned out just as you said it would. and that aint easy!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

if i was even mildly into racing i think it would be a worthy investment. this is one area where i’d like to remove the guesswork. even if one of you guys gets one you can lend it out, probably only takes half an hour tops to get everything dialed in with those:8ball:

[betty.k]

when breaking in motors in water you should use distilled water. it’s pure h2o and pure h2o is an insulator. it’s just all the minerals and crap in tapwater that conducts. but for safety’s sake always assume an electrified puddle is live.:8ball:

[betty.k]

i remember another series on sbs years back that consisted of people re creating ancient feats of engineering with only the tools of the time, eg: making one of the stonehenge structures and they made a full size trebuchet too. fricken ingenious machine!!:p they sure can fling a rock hard!:shock::dead::8ball:

[betty.k]

i love it when a plan comes together!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

i like the ae86, the front sorta looks a bit long but i think that’s just because it needs some details to contrast with. otherwise it’s a work of aaaaart!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

well i dunno about you guys but i wanna make me a tree cannon!!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

hey panda, i wouldn’t mind a copy of that vid, even just to borrow for a couple of nights. i’ll put together a little vid for the masses:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

i dunno whose it was but that orange 1:10 nitro tourer was a beast! to the inexperienced (me) it’s hard to believe something revving that hard and loud can actually stay together!:shock:
and if you want full on speed then you should look into pan chassis cars. 1:12, 1:10, whatever. they just fly! i noticed steve from phantom hobbies was in complete control of his nitro pan, very impressive skills! i’m sure it’s harder than it looks, he made it look like a casual cruise!:smiley16:

if there is a next year i thoroughly recommend heading down, great to see people with skills showing us what these little buggers can do! and if you love a good crash, well, trust me. you’ll love it!!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

well that was a hoot!!:p thrills, spills, chills ‘n kills! mayhem mayhem mayhem!!

i’d never seen nitro tourers before, man those things fly!
and who could forget the wallriding 1:6 tourer (was actually carving the fence above the turns!)
the 1:12 pan cars were definately fast enough to hold their own, just a little hard to control by the looks of things.
and those mo3 mini’s can really go!:p made for exiting racing.

i think the top gun winner was a nitro tourer at 92kph, it’s really quite scary being near the track with that thing going!

here’s a pic of the camera car:8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s a triple stack, just external. it’s to be used to repair a z pcb that was mutilated by it’s owner. mounting the stacks externally is the only option for the pcb in question:8ball:

[betty.k]

actually i should clarify, mine is a “pure ten alpha 1. i’ve also seen an alpha 2 and an alpha 3. and one or both of those is a shaft drive. so we’ll just have to wait and see to be sure.:8ball:

[betty.k]

parts aren’t that hard to come by, i had no trouble at all. and it is an old model but that really means little. it’s a fun car that’s up to the abuse only a novice can cause!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!:D

all you lipo usin’ 6 cell freaks can stick THAT in ya pipe and smoke it!!:approve::8ball:

[betty.k]

i thought mine was a bargain! i got mine second hand with good electronics, stock chassis, spare wheels & tyres for $150. all i needed to buy was batteries.

empire, the 4wd works via a belt. all the gears are sealed nicely except the belt which runs from front to back. i never even came close to breaking the belt in mine!
here’s mine after some slight modification, i added some braces on the shock towers to reduce flex and made an aluminium guard to stop the esc wires touching the belt.

in this pic you can see the belt cover i made out of thin plastic packaging. i rarely had a rock in the belt after that.

mine is just being scrapped for parts now so lemme know if you need spares:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

well i just got done with my first order and it all turned out well. i had to send pics of my details to this address:

kjohnson@towerhobbies.com

this is because my cc was issued outside of the u.s.
they send you heaps of catalogues and coupons in your first shipment too!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve got one of those, it was my first 1:10. and it’s an excellent choice, more of a rally oriented chassis, very tough.
i was hard on mine but only broke about $50 worth of parts on it. and the day before i got my hpi’s i decided to drive it to destruction, but i honestly couldn’t!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

me too!:smiley2:

i’m no expert but here’s what i would do:

1. mask everything first, leaving the “blue” section clear. paint it blue. you can go a bit thick and messy as the outer side won’t show all those surface blemishes like “orange peel” and drips.

2. remove the roof mask and paint the whole thing white (so all the blue is covered.

3. remove the wheel mask and do your black guards. (try to stay on the guards, no need to go everywhere)

4. remove the grille mask and paint silver (again, just the grille.)

5. remove the window mask and bash it til it dies!:D

the most important part is the white layer. it should stop any of the black silver showing through to the outside. do 2 white coats if you wanna be sure.:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 21 February 2005 21:00:26

[betty.k]

or tape a peice of paper or plastic over the larger areas.
my 1:10 bodies only got 2 coats of paint and that’s all they needed. like pb said, dark colour first.:8ball:

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