betty.k

[betty.k]

my, that’s a big one!:shock:

so do you run 2 batt packs with that? if not does the battery run down quicker?:8ball:

[betty.k]

only monitor i got is the green screen apple monitor. which is still good just no colour (well just 1 colour really!) i don’t have a camcorder though:8ball:

[betty.k]

like hell!
all i need to operate is a 240v mains supply or a 12v battery to run the rx and a charger. i’ll be able to bring my camera and rx and i have an extension lead for the aerial. i also have the required leads.
so all we need really is a pole of sorts to mount the aerial on.:8ball:

[betty.k]

Quote:

azza2000…..i also have a gpm v2 external turbo, and it’s an acceptable torque booster – for motors in the 40t range. It is best to NOT yoke it to any motor hotter than 40turns…..I know for a fact that it really struggles (slower speed/torque, LOTS of resistance and power-sucking heat) when trying to run a PNSO3. In short, I’d not pair it with the following motors: PNSO2 PNSO3 PNSO4, Xspeed PRO (iwaver), any ATOMIC AR-18 variant (T1 T2 or Z2), NML’s motors (DEFINITE no-no), or a Plasma Dash variant (this will cook ur V2 turbo in quite a short while).

so what the hell is the point of that? why have a turbo that’s only a tiny bit better than the stock fets??:question::8ball:

[betty.k]

good drivers win no matter what brand car they drive, race stats don’t really mean much for the beginner. the biggest concern for you is can you look after it and is it fun!:clown: i reckon you should look at a tamiya mini, lotsa fun, tough as boots and easy to drive:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

what scale? if you want a killer 1:10 deal get this:

http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3044&FORUM_ID=23&CAT_ID=7&Topic_Title=2x+Tamiya+TT01s+for+sale+1x+RTR+1x+car+only+QUICK&Forum_Title=nonMicro+RC+%2D+Forsale+%7C+Want+%7C+Swap

bargain!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

looking forward to seeing it!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

this is the only place i know of that has 1:64 alloy rims.

http://www.scala43.com/scala43/rad.htm

i’ve never ordered there nor do i know the sizes they sell, but it’s a start:8ball:

[betty.k]

Quote:

Neway…..any miniature car that runs via transmitter is always a ‘toy’ to the untutored eye of the ignorant layman (i:e girls in general and my family ;)) lol they still think my mini-z is a kmart cheapo.

aww hell, when you get down to it anything us blokes buy to amuse ourselves is a toy! if i went out and bought a million dollar yacht it would be a toy. a big bloody expensive toy at that!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s only been about 3 or 4 months since i got my first 1:10 and lemme tell ya, if i knew then what i know now i would have bought a brushless setup at the beginning. they sure look expensive to a new feller but after wearing out 3 motors (3 x $60) and zillions of brushes they don’t looks so expensive any more!:shock:
just get an esc with the highest current rating you can afford. and don’t forget to check if it has the features you want (brake, reverse, have kettle boiled in time for end of race!:smiley2:):8ball:

[betty.k]

i didn’t know we were talking xmod, sorry!:blush: you really need to put that adjustment screw back how you found it, it’s to control the receiver part not the steering!
so, my guess is a broken servo wire, most likely one of the three that go to the servo pot:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 16 February 2005 19:31:00

[betty.k]

the plasma dash (or similar open endbell design eg; atomic) has brushes that can be changed without opening the can.

but i tells ya, my pn racing s03 has been running hard for a good 6 months now, brushes still gots plenty o’ meat!!:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

thank you for the advice:smiley2:

turns out there was something wrong with the dongle, i took it back to the pc shop i got it from and the sales clerk couldn’t get it to work with any pc’s or phones either. most frustrating thing was the pc and phone both recognised each others existence but refused to communicate! (much like an old fashioned marriage really!):D:8ball:

[betty.k]

that would be like a frontal labotomy for that tx!:D
it’s cool that they include a mini z pcb with it:8ball:

[betty.k]

har har har!!:D not until you buy them you don’t!!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m assuming you want to use your i waver tx, and that’s why you want a seperate rx and servo. there’s nothing wrong with that really, i did.
i’ve been abusing a futaba s3003 for a while now and it holds up fine, maybe a little slow. i’t currently in my monster and serves me well.
but when it comes to an esc, spend as much as you can. when you’re new you make lots of mistakes that can fry even a good esc. i killed my first esc by using throttle when there was a rock in the belt and it was rated at 240a continuous, 940a peak. so that esc you’re looking at will probably pop the first time you touch the throttle!:8ball:

[betty.k]

that’s a point. what sorta car we talking here aquaman:question::8ball:

[betty.k]

there was a mild incident but all involved have sorted it out maturely so i say the issue is dead.

but i kinda like the idea of friendly rivals! let’s take it to the track, team adrenaline Vs ausmicro 1:28 shootout!:p:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

check the steering trim on the tx and also the small trimpot on the pcb. it’s probably the little one on the pcb:8ball:

[betty.k]

anything less than 8 cells in the tx = toy!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

could be the batteries in your controller need a change. or if that doesn’t fix it there’s a good chance the internal batt in the car is dead.:8ball:

[betty.k]

empire, there’s plenty of local places to get your mini z fix. the ausmicro shop has a good range of essential replacements and hopups. then there’s the sydney crew, they probably own 5 times their bodyweight in z’s!:D
bithead is a great source of japanese stuff you might not see anywhere else. and ken wyleung is a walking kyosho store!
pretty much any local regular poster here is reliable when it comes to second hand stuff, no one’s gonna sell you broken crap. at worst maybe slightly worn crap!:smiley2:

(sorry if i missed anyone):8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 12 February 2005 17:21:08

[betty.k]

that sounds encouraging:smiley2:

anyway, have a look at this little beauty!!!!:p

here’s the guts.

i need to lose some of the excess wiring but it’s pretty compact as is. the escs sit nicely on the gearboxes and the rx sits in the middle. i’ve found tanks work best if the front is heavier so the batteries are up front. that’s where the battery compartment was anyway. this kit was designed to use one of those 9.6v packs (8 x AA) but the escs are only meant to run on 6 cells so i’ll have to look around at batteries that are lighter than the ones in my stick packs.

i got a stick tx with the rx originally and i wanted a proper tank tx so after some chopping and gluing i modified the tx so both controllers move up and down. looks messy but works really well.

only things i got left to do are make a windscreen, sort out some other power source (maybe i might enter the world of lithium?) paint the tracks and make em grippier. i also want to seal all the little holes and make a cover for the rear vents so it can withstand a bit of rain.

this sure is one fun toy!:clown::8ball:

[betty.k]

‘cos i’m a lateral thinker:smiley2::D:8ball:

[betty.k]

run it in reverse until one stack warms up. the cold one is forward:smiley2::8ball:

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