betty.k

[betty.k]

seriously man, i can’t stress it enough, CLEAN THE VARIABLE RESISTOR IN THE SERVO!! trust me. if this don’t help THEN move on to more dangerous fixes:8ball:

[betty.k]

what price happiness?:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

overlands can go fast with upgrades and same with the madforce. if you’re willing to spend a little the team losi mini t is an impressive package, about $160usd. i think you need to buy batteries but it comes with essentials like bearings and nice shocks. and from what i can gather they take a beating too:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’ve finished upgrading the chassis now to a point where i’m happy with the handling. as i suspected the rollshocks are fantastic, really help with conering. the whole thing weighs plenty more now justifying a better motor. so the stock parts now are the pcb and servo.:approve::8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m gonna do it this colour

ran out of clear, so i’ll have a chance for it to harden nicely before continuing. it won’t be as stealthy as i first planned, i found some cool decals i wanna use:p:8ball:

[betty.k]

i too have heard good things about the rear end on this baby, thanks for the headsup otp!:):8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s cool:D i didn’t really label the pics. top left is the before shot, top right is after a hole filling and heavy sanding and at that point i cut out the bonnet holes and the grilles from the front. and the little groove in the roof is for the camera aerial.:8ball:

[betty.k]

good work z boy! i’ll be experimenting with h plates soon, but i’ll wait til i get a couple of other projects done first. and i’ll try to bust the ones i’ve got first, nothing like desperation to provide inspiration:8ball:

[betty.k]

read through this:

http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2176&FORUM_ID=13&CAT_ID=4&Topic_Title=mini+z+servo+madness&Forum_Title=Mini%2DZ%2C+Mini%2DX%2C+X%2DMods+%2D+Technical

a cap on the servo motor won’t hurt, but i think your problem lies elsewhere. does the drive motor have 2 capacitors soldered to it?:8ball:

[betty.k]

the bottom pics are of the under coat stage. i did think about a fancy spoiler but extremities and me don’t mix! i’ll just stick with the stock one.:8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s all good! check dis!:p

they work so well, only coming unseated during rollovers. as can be expected torque is reduced and top speed is better, but i’m currently runnig a 9t pinion so dropping down to a 6t will make it spit dirt! the tyres themselves are great, plenty grippy on concrete and a little bouncy. i can go across the grass too, thanks to the larger diameter. it gets stuck sometimes in a tall part BUT. lego comes to the rescue again!:shock:

this car has the same rims as the other, so i can only assume that these tyres will fit just as well.

how good is that!!!!!:p

and the first person that says “why don’t you just buy an overland” is gonna cop a punch in tha neck!:dead::8ball:

[betty.k]

think about it, a break dancin transformer, what do break dancers break to? ….. a ghetto BLASTER:8ball:

[betty.k]

20th looks good for me, working on the 14th:8ball:

[betty.k]

so i can lay the jumps out again?!!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

Quote:

that effect I think (with mine anyway) has to be due to the rear suspension setup. How come the rear wheels camber in their movement? Really stuffs up traction I think

i agree, that’s why i chose the stiff springs for the rollshocks. in a perfect world i’d want a 2 stage rollshock that has a bit of stiction, so it only moves with a bigger bump such as an air spring with a stiff coil spring to take care of minor high frequency bumps. i don’t think there’s any air sprung shocks at this scale and i aint even gonna think about trying to make one so i’ll persist with my springs:8ball:

[betty.k]

wow, that’s fantastic! i like the subtle body changes, looks like it was meant to be!:p
and i love the logo, those funky robots is makin’ a comeback i think! there’s a cool vid somewhere on the net of them poppin and rockin in a rock steady crew stylee!:D uprock!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

no sweat, prolly be a while before i get one of those extended h plates, but for now i’m using the skinny cf h plate and i ground off the knob on that doohicky that goes between the h plate and chassis. now it can flex up and down alot easier and i’m using the softest spring on the rear shock. i’ve got the megatech triple alloy shockset which i think works well (it’s my first so nothing to compare to) and when greased up offer some damping, more important than the spring i think. if i didn’t find this shockset then my setup would be thin cf h plate, oil damped roll shocks with med – hard springs, oil damped rear shock with no spring. the h plate offers plenty of spring on it’s own, damping it will reduce the “pogo stick” effect.:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 09 June 2004 09:47:24

[betty.k]

geo, get a file and file the can where the cap legs will sit. then with a little blob of solder on the tip of your iron, place it on the can and after a couple of seconds introduce some new solder to the join. this should give you a good solder pad for the caps.:8ball:

[betty.k]

well i found what i want and more!

http://www.megatech.com/results_hop_up2.php?hidden=&hopup=KYOSHO

they got craploads of different h plates, no o plates. but they got long h plates which is what i’m really after. my theory is mount the h plate in the short wheelbase position and have a longer h plate. this will allow a lot more flex than a short one. as i’ve said, i want to factor the hplate out of the equation and let the shocks do the work.
and i know i’ve done a bad bad thing by posting this page, scroll down into carbon fibre ($)and alloy ($$$) heaven!!!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

well i’m in for 1 x mercedes iwaver (pref silver).
i have a friend who is thinking about it but it’s not likely to happen.:8ball:

[betty.k]

the rear lights are just 2 led’s in a row taped to the rear window. it wouldn’t be too much to wire up an led so it lights up when reverse is engaged but i just went for the permanently on look:8ball:

[betty.k]

got some lights in this baby now!:p i used the led’s and resistors from the logic lightset i got. i don’t like lights that only work when the throttle is engaged so i just wired them directly onto the battery. now they stay lit all the time except when the motor sucks too much. and after seeing z beam’s evil looking uv underglow monster bit i went off to jaycar and got a couple of uv led’s. i’ve angled them towards the ground but they make the clear z chassis flouresce so i might fiddle around with their position.:8ball:

http://www.geocities.com/bettyksprivatestash/iwaver2.html?1086538171945

[betty.k]

ho on a zz:8ball:

[betty.k]

when installing led’s in bit shells use the smallest possible, 3mm should be the max really. surface mount are the best, try shopping at jaycar electronics or a similar shop. as for getting them in, any way you can really. if you’re using button cells then just wire them directly on. anything larger and you’ll have to use resistors and maths! here’s a pic of some of my light installations

http://www.geocities.com/bettyk3332003/attachingshellstute.html

i usually paint them black or cover them with black tape so the light only comes through where i want it.:8ball:

[betty.k]

otp:

http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1473&FORUM_ID=4&CAT_ID=2&Topic_Title=I+give+my+stuff+away+to+you%2E%2E%2Esort+of%21&Forum_Title=Micro+Scale+%2D+For+Sale+%7C+Wanted+%7C+Trading

this group buy went smoothly, and was an excellent opportunity to meet fellow members for the first time. nuff said:8ball:

[Author]

Posts