kevsta
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Tamiya johnson silver can 540 motor &
Epic roar stock pro.Quote:you got it about right kev… the droop is used to limit the amount of up travel b4 the wheels lift. on bumpy tracks use more droop, on smooth tracks use less droop. droop also affects the ballance of the car. there is a lot more to it than that but it even gives me a headache sometimes. best to experiment if you want but dont give it too much thought yet, sounds like you have it pretty right for now.Hey Big Dave, thanks for the reply – I understand it a bit better now… and will experiment with a few settings.
Hmm… limiting the upward travel would affect the weight transfer from front to back and back to front with diving and squatting.
Thanks !
😀
Quote:Quote:Won’t be able to try it out until my motor comm gets a bit scarred though.Cut your comms more often & you’ll cut them less.
Better to do many more ‘light’ skims, rather than doing a deep cut.
More your brushes bounce on a un-true comm the more they arc and
eat away the copper, so you need to do the deep cut.Thanks, will be doing a light skim tonight. Stock Motor is apart right now, just got to set up the cutting bit on the lathe. At the moment, I don’t know if the cutting bit is a left to right or right to left one…
Quote::blush:i dont think i will ever get a stock motor too much hassles for a guy like me man.
I can do the motor stuff for you if you don’t want the hassles. Apart from comm cutting, changing brushes & springs, oil bushings, or re shimming it if necessary. I don’t think there’s anything else to do… Big Dave can explain it to you…
Btw.. you running the mini cooper or the tourer on Sunday ?:D
Yeah, you got me hard with the mini, I was in pain but lucky no blood, just some minor bruising on the small toe.
Had fun on the day, but brush farm courts are extremely dusty compared to meadowbank.
I’ve changed back to running the silver can for next week man.
Quote:hmmmmm took my mini out for a spin today, notice it turns more tighter in one direction then the other!might change my tires on sunday if i still get the same results looks like another rebuild of the diff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don’t think its a diff problem. I think its more to do with the centering of the servo and the end point adjustments (epa) that you need to make on the 2pl controller.
Quote:yeah but the two ball diffs i am talking about are the same except the said gear. the 03 and 03r diffs are the same. just put an extra cone shim in the diff and do it up as tight as it will go. you feel a definate stop when the diff is fully tightened.BIG DAVE
Okay thanks for the tip Big Dave. Is the extra cone shim available at the hobby store as a tamiya spare parts bag or a good hardware store ?
Quote:TA03 ball diff is good tighten it up and it may aswell be a spool..That’s odd. The ta03 ball diff looks very similar to the manta ray ball diff where both diffs use those metal cones to apply pressure to the diff plates.
I think I’ve tightened the manta ray ball diff as much as it will go, but don’t want to tighten it any further for fear of stripping something. Although it doesn’t slip now, there is still plenty of easy diff action – but too much for my liking.
🙂
Quote:yeah i aint a great fan of it aswell…….i wonder how the other type goes?
Yeah not sure if the ta03 ball diff is any better ? But I don’t think I’ll be getting the other one unless the existing one breaks.
I also got the shorten touring car springs, makes my m03 chassis sit with a 8mm ride height and finally the wheels don’t sit with positive camber.
🙂Quote:thanks man now that makes sense.i use a manta ray ball diff it seems okay. i got some hpi tires but have yet to run them.
I use the manta ray ball diff as well, but don’t really like it that much as even when the thing is tightened up, the diff action is still fairly loose. but hey, better than the gear diff.
Quote:dude i know this might sound bad but bloody hell improve your typing skills i can bearly understand what your trying to say!as for hop ups i got basically all that you have except the universal drive shafts. the mini handles fine have yet to race it.
yi man gt da unis day r pritty good. no cliking noises wen turning.
Okay, 12.30 – 1pm it is.
As for the iwaver blowing up, could it have been due to bad meshing ?
Okay, so about what time meadowbank this weekend ?
It won’t be fun if I turn up and you guys have already dumped all of your batteries or vice versa.
Hey, got my eagle comm lathe last night, it’s a nice piece of equipment, anodized in purple and all…
Won’t be able to try it out until my motor comm gets a bit scarred though.
I wish it came with some diagrams and english instructions on which way to mount the cutting bit.
Quote:i wont be there this Sunday. Not going Friday night to the Hill eitherDamn. That means no mini-z track.
Oh well… might just bring the mini cooper and 350z only. Got to sort out the spring situation.
Quote:well there is racing on this sunday at tempe the (3rd) but i cantm make it due to famioy stuff sister giving birth on sunday i think (well thats when shes booked in for the operation) so that means i havent run any Z’s or 1/10th in a few weeks i would really like to be there on the 10th!!!!lets just hope life doesnt shaft me again :smiley16:
I didn’t turn up for the races either so that I could spend some time with the family and have this coming Sunday free for Meadowbank.
Quote:this may be a bit off topic any1 noe where i can get some alrite 3300mah cells for around 35 bucks a pack shippeD?Mocky, have a look at these:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_52_351&products_id=9876They work out to be about $35AUD shipped by registered air mail.
Quote:only got half that left sorry… its just Kyosho carbon look stuff… better scale for 1/10 too. Try your LHSOh alright, I just thought you made them at work like the other decals.
Mocky should have a protoform mazda 6 shell.
Dave, how much for an a4 sheet of carbon decal ?
I’m keen on running the Zs, next Sunday April 10th at meadowbank sounds good.
Also want to run the mini cooper:)
Quote:Quote:kev want the BEST stock motor localy cant go past the EA tuned trinitys.. can get them from harrisRCyeah, i’ll be grabbing one of these shortly
Me too, I’ll grab one of those monsters as well with the F-brushes. Local price is quite good for a tuned motor, about the same as buying from the US with shipping.
Got my eyes on the epic outlaw binary 2 stock – the one with 4 magnets inside the can that’s suppose to run like a 19t.
🙂
Merc, wish I could make friends with someone that has one, but don’t really want to hassle someone on race day to cut a comm between races. I’ve seen the look on some of the “serious” racers and it’s the same look people get when the hsc chemistry exam paper is placed in front of them. LOL…
All my other gear seems okay so far, but will find out when I race my first stock class this weekend.
Big Dave, I’ve got a team br00d monster stock motor at the moment, and some time this week, the epic roar stock pro motor coming from tower. I read on the web that stock motors need to be cut on average every 8-9 runs so that they last a lot longer. That’s why the sudden interest in lathes.
I’m looking at ordering the Eagle comm lathe 4 pictured here:
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en%20net/en%20cont/en%20on%20new3/cont03_2_1.html for around $145 AUD it seems good value.
🙂That video is awesome.
Did you break or bend anything when you hit that kerb a full speed ?
Yeah, looks like it can do the sealed stock motors such as these ones:
…provided that there is a hole near the brush hoods where the cutting bit can enter. So silver cans and sport tuned motors are out… but I guess you can comm stick these ones, or use cotton buds.
Have you got a lathe Merc ? Just wondering if the eagle racing one is any good because it’s more suited to my budget than a hudy one plus diamond bit.
🙂
Quote:lol, as for souping the bugger up I put in a graupner (sounds dirty) speed 300 in it and it rocks!ph2t.
Any chance of some video of it in action ?
:p
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