Aaron
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Aye – the software does and auto resize as well, but please try to keep file/image sizes somewhere between 640×480 and 1024x768ish
Makes life easy for everyone 😉
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Site Owner Guy.I work for 2 Universities… IT/Desktop Systems Admin/Manager type person….
And now starting to get half alright at ASP coding 😉
Never finsihed Uni myself, and now work for ’em… anyone see a paradox there?
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah but that’s what makes the M-series so much fun… you throw hours of track time and stacks of $$$ into trying to achieve the impossible.. Although it did improve my finesse and driving skill a lot.
All I know is mine would wheelspin for ages, then finally grip and rocket off before running out of ground… I used to run it on a parade ground here at work, covered with really really fine small in areas, made for hairy moments of no control 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Aye… better acceleration perhaps but not more outright speed.
I should have converted the Mini to RWD instead of keeping it FWD 😉 but then again I don’t think it would have changed much 😉
I was running 55mm wheels on itand quite a large pinion…. Low weight, bugger all suspension and big wheels made it a handfill….
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah I dunno about durability… It’s a masterpiece of mechanics though.
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Site Owner Guy.*laughs* That’s so true Panda…
I’ve had the pleasure of carpark running with one of the local aces here… the guy could make a RadioShack R/C look quick 😉
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Site Owner Guy.The good ‘ol Duratrax Evader type things are good bashers, and supposedly in the hands of a half decent driver let you have decent fun racing. Best of all they have a low turnkey price of about $400 inc radio gear…..
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Site Owner Guy.Now that would be interesting 😉 The ’03 is very very versatile 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Bodies harder to get, not many hop ups as they come pretty warm outa the box. They cost roughly the same and have a reasonable array of spares etc.
Take a look at http://www.rcmart.com they sell them and most spares etc.
A couple fo other places do as well, but there’s definately less support ‘out there’ for them compared to Mini-Z.
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Site Owner Guy.It’s not me as such – the car was bought used… It had/has problems witht he way the previous owner built it (stripped threads, self tap screws where machine scews should be etc) and as such it’s ‘breaking’ things becuase they’re not right to start off with.
I think I’m on top of all the problems now and am starting to get into the serious side of it…
Very very happy with the way it drives.
As for my car killign tricks.. the Twin MSC 12 turn mini was a rocket with no handling and hence barrel rolls at full speed took their toll on the body mounts and wheels 😉
The Baja only snapped a driveaxle, common enough failure and is being rebuilt now – finally, had a little bit of grit in the rear gearbox but otherwise fine.
The FF I had never broke anythig – I just didn’t like ti.
The Stadium Blitzer – *sigh* bought for fun, it was good fun but like Wild Willy it just didn’t handle…. So sold it on too. Never broke ’em though….
Next will be a Wild Dagger…. Just need the $300 for the kit 😉
Edited by – Aaron on 19 August 2003 10:04:37
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Site Owner Guy.I had mine (complete with foam tyres, retuned supension etc) on the driveway the other night… It’s a short driveway and even then the speed and control can be interesting with the small size of the car.
In my defence it was twilight….
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Site Owner Guy.I’m locking this thread for now…
It’s waffling along and being a bit too vindictive … Guys remember we’re here for fun and good times. We all can take a joke but before the line gets crossed…..
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Site Owner Guy.Just to Jump in – technically a Mini-X is superior to a Mini-Z. The Mini-X has AWD, double wishbone suspension, ball differentials etc
The big disadvantage is the somewhat unique way the bodies mount and the in the engine design.
I’d still love one though.,.,
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Site Owner Guy.Hey uA this years bill will be a minimum of E1080……
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Site Owner Guy.*looks around*
Yes a few people do, maybe not the peopel you think either!
It’s the biggest thing ever to hit ausmicro.com – even bigger than the 2002 hosting bill!!!!!!
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Site Owner Guy.You have a problem with Barcodes – in that the read times as the car trvels over is critical as is the number oif simultaneous counts.
ausmicro.com has been working with the DingoTimer people about developing a system and it’s damn expensive finding a way of reliALlby tracking say 12 cars (maximum avail mini-z freqs) if they’re all in close proximity.
About AU$1K setup cost for the timing gear!
*sighs* we know how we have the software, we just need $2K to finish the testing and developments!!!
A.
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Site Owner Guy.And each device must be tested to comply BEFORE it can be legally imported/sold.
*shrugs* It’s illegal to import, illegal to sell and illegal to use….
*sighs*
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Site Owner Guy.Aye – gotta agree with Jamie.
Build the LEDs into the shell, complete with a small battery pack so that they can to operated completely seperate to the Mini-Z. Afterall for serious racing you’d not tbe runnign a ‘show’ shell anyways 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Nah I don’t like experiementing with it either.. Then again I used mine at work… in out building which has good RF shielding (mobiles only work next to widnows etc) and it goes maybe 5m before spacking out into the walls!
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Site Owner Guy.mmmmmmm interesting idea VR-4, never heard of it before.
I’ve usually done my break ins running un-loaded with the motor being rotated every 5 minutes so the bearings seat equally and all that kinda stuff…
Then again I’ve only really bothered to break in two motors…..
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Site Owner Guy.Mines not much shorter than a real 1/10th scale car. 20 metres easy, 50 metres with good conditions!
Damn hard to see the car at that kind of range 😉
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Site Owner Guy.Easiest way of doing it would be with a Poll for each Mod. People could vote so we get an average, plus also post their actual score and comments.
I’m sure the Moderators would be able to keep the threads nice and neat. We’ll just more out ‘discussion’ posts and keep it for ratings only.
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Site Owner Guy.*nods* they’re the packs I was thinking about (the Master Instruments) I noted the same things although can’t be bothered witht he wiring changes 😉
A.
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Site Owner Guy.There are some Sanyo celled Australian assembled 1700NiCd packs that have great punch for about AU$40….
THey’re my current choice thanks to the lowish cost, good punch and decent runtimes.
I do have a 2200 pack that’s pretty good but doesn’t have the outright ‘punch’ of the Sanyo 1700s….
Woudl lvoe to go up the NiMH but just can’t wing the buxs right now 🙁
A.
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Site Owner Guy.*nods* the best one I had was the companied that levied said fees in US$ at time of export, to prepare the paperwork, then the Aussie side of it levied a fee (again in US$ as it’s a US company) for recieving and processing the above paperwork. US$60 for the pleasure of doing this for $US100 worth of parts which normally wouldn’t have attracted duty is they came via the normal post.
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Site Owner Guy. -
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