betty.k
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did you try the capacitors on the motor yet? :8ball:
gordon bennet!! that’s absolutely outta this world!
i hate you!:D :8ball:
@diehard 225585 wrote:
what are these orange caps you talk about do you have a pic of one? as there are no orange caps on the motor…. do you mean capacitors???
yep, capacitors. you should have 2 104 caps that go from the motor terminals to the can. :8ball:
you can buy cans of compressed air from jaycar (even dickies);) :8ball:
6m range is crap, something’s wrong.
check the aerial wire, replace it even.
bend the legs of your crystal a tiny bit inwards, just enough for it to fit in the holder firmly :8ball:
you can get it at bike shops too (both bicycle and motorbike).
i use it on my bike chain, it doesn’t dry out properly if that’s what you want. i probably wouldn’t recommend it in small bearings with small loads based on that as i think it would thicken over time.
it will however stay on the contact surfaces longer unlike normal oils which are usually pushed away. this is good for my bike chain but i think it will slow down smaller bearings. eg: i don’t use the stuff on my gear cables as it gums them up when it drys making shifting harder quicker.that’s just my opinion, i could be way off.
the only true dry lube is graphite powder, you can completely wash and dry your bearings and work some of that into them then blow away the excess. i used to do that in my xmod, worked great for me;) :8ball:
ouch! great work! :topstuff:
i’ve got an iwaver 01 chassis sitting here doing nothing. pm me ya details if you want it :8ball:
well technically 75mhz is an illegal frequency in australia, it’s an american freq.
our legal freq’s (off the top of my head) for land rc’s are 27mhz, 29 mhz, and 40mhz. 36mhz is for air rc. the 2.4ghz stuff is legal worldwide.
it’s not like the cops are gonna kick your door in when you turn it on (a 75mhz tx) but it means you will have to shop overseas for crystals and rx’s and you won’t be allowed to use it at a proper club race.
so to cover your ass in future go for 27mhz.
futaba radios are excellent value for money too. :8ball:
that’s a good tx for the money, ph2t has one like that and has no problems with it.
it’s cheap because as you suggested it’s not high on features and there is no rx or servos included. :8ball:
i like the mini t body, great looking paintjob:thumbs_up:
you’ll wanna have another go at the brp body lines, i know you can do better!:D :8ball:
cool, looks like my kinda racing!:D :8ball:
never seen that happen before so it could be a once off occurence.
when you press the bearing back in warm up the can first with a lighter, should make it easier to press the bearing back and when it cools it will grip it better (hopefully) :8ball:
@peteWah 225450 wrote:
But remember people, colour will not add performance.
are you outta your mind??? everyone knows red goes faster!!:D
here’s a little comparison pic of our coins so those in the u.s., u.k, and canada can get some perspective of our 5c peice.
it’s about 1.4mm larger than a dime;) :8ball:generally speaking, you want to break in a motor at around half it’s intended voltage.
eg: in a 4 cell mini z you will use 2 cells for break in.
also during break in you should run the motor with no load and wired directly to the cells, don’t break a motor in by running it installed at low throttle on a stand.
the desired result of a break in is to have the brushes making full contact with the commutator. so how long you do it for depends on how long that process takes.
in a 130 sized z motor that could take up to an hour with new brushes but something like 15 – 30 mins should be enough.put some oil on the bushings too.
there’s another method known as “water dipping” which is the same as above only you immerse the motor completely in demineralised/distilled water. it supposedly does a better job and is much faster but it involves thoroughly drying your motor afterwards.
(pure h20 does not conduct electricity, the stuff dissolved in it is what conducts;) ) :8ball:for the benefit of our overseas friends (u.s., u.k., canada) here’s a side by side comparison of our coins. our 5c peice is about 1.4mm larger than a dime;) :8ball:
@henal 225429 wrote:
it should be faster as there less winds in the motor
yeah and it should have lots more torque as it has stronger magnets too.
there are a few possible explanations for your dilemma:
1 you didn’t get a genuine kyosho xspeed
2 you got a dud (very rare)
3 you already had an xspeed with the sticker removed :8ball:you bloody ripper! :topstuff: :8ball:
that’s some tidy work there man, but i’m dissapointed that it doesn’t come in black heatshrink with a red stripe!:rolleyes: :8ball:
great work man, worthy of a sticky :topstuff: :8ball:
aww, don’t worry about having lotsa messy solder. it will act as a heatsink:smiley16: :8ball:
@merc-blue 225340 wrote:
wouldnt mind having a quick look at the micro-t decide if i should go there
well put some cash aside now, one look at that little bugger and you’ll be hooked!:D :8ball:
losi have released a 7.4v lipo pack so the extra voltage is losi approved!:beer: :8ball:
@rcs2die4 225275 wrote:
MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??
Do you run side shocks ??
Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
What brand and hardness foams do you run ??sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!
sorry i missed your post rcs, but what ph2t quoted pretty much covers it.
the most important factor in most racing is rear end traction, if you can’t get your back tyres to grip you got nothing.
that’s kinda what we mean by giving the car understeer, you want the rear end to have way more traction than the front.
for instance, if i put foams on the front and the rear i get massive oversteer and it usually rolls over.
the best performing t plates i’ve ever used are the atomic frpt plates. i used the wide one with the hardest spring. only problem is they break too often on rough surfaces. on a nice smooth track they may last better.
otherwise kyosho h plates are the best.my current setup:
mr02
iwaver mclaren f1 body
nelly turbo
pn racing s04
9t pinion
3racing ball diff
gandini foam tyres & rims (0 degree rims, hard med and soft foams all seemed to grip brilliantly for me. just the softer ones wear quicker than the harder ones.)
pn racing alloy mm motor mount
3racing carbon fibre wide t plate
kyosho oil shock (no spring)
kyosho skeleton chassis (no biggie, just clear polycarbonate)
.5 degree toe in tie rod
3racing kingpins
iwaver soft front springs
gpm 2/3 degree cambered alloy knuckles (tighter track = more camber)
atomic 0 deg narrow front dish rims
kyosho rubber front tyres, 30 deg radials, 30 deg, 40 deg. (depending on track conditions, colder track = softer tyres.)
atomic alloy front body clip
teflon sealed bearings
alloy wheel nuts
titanium screwset
39kph on the tamiya checker.alot of that is overkill but it’s very easy and predictable to drive which is important in track racing.
if you make your z any faster then you may as well take up drag racing, too fast is not as much fun as you think. (just ask jamie kulhanek!:D i watched his z go from 84kph to zero in the space of one barrier!)
don’t take that as a definative guide but it’s what works for me :8ball:
@rcs2die4 225307 wrote:
ok, have all that, bar the oil damper !!! so kyosho oil shock !! and dont run a spring on it ? so it just dampens yeah ?
correct.
i should say that this works for me and most others that try it.
although i’m not sure about the clearance issues with the vds body, do you think the shock will fit under the body?if not the disk damper may be what you need, most people speak favourably about them. :8ball:
i’m sure matt has the spares, i’ll get on his back about it. just clarify which nelly it is, maybe get a pic. :8ball:
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