kevsta
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Played it a while back, but didn’t really get absorbed into it. I like the command and conquer series though, they were good.
These days, I just play half-life 2.
Quote:bah thats bull shit.. that runtim is standard for a 3000 specialty charging at 1.5A if u cahrger at 3-5 u will get more punch (LOTS) and lower runtime.. which is alot better no use going slow for ages when ya cna go fast for still about 15-20 minsExcellent. I’m going to hit them with 4 amps next charge cycle.
Thanks for the info.
😀
Hey I just re-read the manual and it says:
“For NiMH, use maximum charge rate of: capacity x 2. For new batteries a lower charge rate is better. Capacity / 2 would be appropriate. For example, a new 3000mAH NiMH would have an initial charge of 1.5 amps (3000mAH / 2 = 1500 mAH, or 1.5 amps)”.
So when does a battery become old ? after 5 charge cycles ?
I took the car out for a run yesterday evening, and after 25 minutes of constant running in two netball courts, my batteries still wouldn’t dump. Is this normal ? I’m running stock tamiya 540 motor 😯 22t pinion and 55t spur.
Merc,
Hmmm.. not sure. 1.5 amp is from the manual. Max amps I can go with this charger is 4.5. If I charge at the max, won’t it shorten the lifespan of the batteries ?
Jamie,
I had delta peak 30mv (also from manual) for the 3300 and 20mv for the 1100.
The batterys both got very warm toward the end of the charge. So can I assume it’s not false peaking ?
This is all new to me any help is appreciated.
🙂
Damn rain. Wanted to test out the 1:10 today, had all my battery packs charged.
The charger ain’t too bad at all. Takes 90 mins to charge a 3300 pack at 1.5 amps.
Takes 40 mins to charge a 1100 pack at 0.5 amps.
Does 2 batt packs at the same time.
Has bannana sockets, so you can hook up aaa/aa battery holders to charge if needed.
Takes ac/dc source.
Requires a pc power supply cable ($2 from Jaycar)
Not too bad in my opinion for the price.
I’m happy with it.
Who’s in for some high speed circuit racing on the day ?
My fingers are itching, and the Z’s have a thick layer of dust on them.
Woohoo… finally got the charger from the US and it came as normal post. Worked out to be $113USD delivered.
I’m going to rtfm tonight and do some deans plug soldering tonight.
Feb 6th sounds good, but will have to see what the temperatures are like on the day… Hopefully a lot cooler than some of the weekend temps that we’ve been having lately.
Yes mini-z’s are great when you’ve got that rc bug and want to play at home…
And yes it’s addictive, just check out my photo gallery and see all the gear that I’ve got.:)
How much did the NML cost you ?
Looks very nice. How much is it ?
Noticed that the spur gear cover has been replaced with those carbon upper braces exposing the the pinion and spur to rocks right ?
Quote:thanks for that which one are you planning on gettingI’m going to get the superbrain 969 pro as it comes with the 240V power supply unit and can also run off car battery and can charge two stick packs at the same time. Don’t want the hassles of getting a seperate 12V DC psu – I think these are around the $80 AUD mark ?
It may not be the best, but it’s within my budget.
Merc, sounds like you got some serious stuff happening there.
Quote:hello i was woundering if someone could help me i am in need of a good quick charger for my sanyo 3600 mAh battery i need something that is going to keep my battery in good condition and not take long to chargeYeah, I’m also looking for a good charger as well… Here are a few that I have in mind.
Chargetronic – about $130 AUD
http://www.masterinstruments.com.au/browse/Model/ChargetronicAC_DC_Digital_Charger.htmlSuperbrain 969 pro – about $170 AUD shipped
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEVC7&P=7Apex MU+ & AC Power Supply – about $130 AUD Shipped
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_37_53&products_id=1394Eagle CDC 6.0/b – cream of the crop but needs a seperate power supply to run off mains ? Can someone confirm this ?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_37_53&products_id=3416You can also get cheaper DC only ones like Duratrax Piranha for like $50 AUD.
🙂
Quote:arrr the gmaxx cells are NOTHING compared to the GPs and sanyos.. i ran cheapo generic 3300s before my current matched sanyo 2400s and i got better performance and runtime from the 2400s because there were better cells in better packsYeah, the gmaxx will be the weekly bash around batteries.
For novice racing I’ll be getting me a couple of gp 3300s.
Quote:buy 1 get 1 free??can you provide a linky plz kev?
Sure can…
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_52_351&products_id=9877
Well, I’m assuming the (1+1) When you place it in your cart, it goes to like 1.2 kg, so I guess I’m assuming the offer is still valid.
BTW shipping is a killer, works out to be like $33AUD per stick pack in the end.
Quote:any luck runing your rc18t yet kev?No mate, waiting on a charger to be shipped from hong kong, it’s going to take something like a month or so because it’s coming on actual ship in a 10kg box with other stuff.
Either that or buy a step down transformer to plug in the 110V charger, but that’s like $50 and the slow charger takes like 10 hours to charge up the batts so not really worth it.
I’m also learning the ropes with all these batteries.
I’ve placed an order for those g-maxx 3300 buy one get one free from rcmart for $29.95 USD.
Was also looking at gp 3300 and intellect 3300 from the usual places…
🙂
That’s very nice. I like the lexan tub that protects the chassis.
🙂
Got my 18t today, looks nice in the box, controller looks tacky and feels cheap though. Even though it’s team ae, it appears to be made in china.
I’m afraid this is going to be a shelf queen for a while, bloody came with a 110 volt charger. :angry:
I went for the TB02 as well because it suited my budget, has the flexibility of suspension adjustments and also because I prefer to source tamiya parts from the east rather than the west just personal preference I guess.
I haven’t got mine running yet, just rolling chassis and kit forms at the moment, so can’t offer any opinions on how well it handles…
The only downfall of this chassis is the motor mount having fixed holes for mounting the motor pinion gear from the spur gear (I think Tamiya wanted racers to use equal gearing for racing). Factory standard, the highest gear setting you can use is 5.70:1 with the 25 tooth pinion gear (option part) and the 55 tooth spur gear. However there a work arounds to get higher gearing by buying gears from other tamiya chassis. Some time in the future, I’m pretty sure someone will be making an adjustable motor mount for this chassis, perhaps a TB02-R…
Just got my package as well.
Thank you.
Cheers,
K.:DThe Mini-z did it for me for 2004. But 2005 will be a new learning curve as I get acquainted with a 4wd rc18t monster truck and 1:10 ep tourers.
🙂
Quote:you getting them from hobbyco kev?tell us the price for those items dude.
i need them and a set of white dish rims plus rubber for em.
Yes. f201 high speed gear set is about $16, pinions are about $14.
team sorex dish rims are $11.95 set of 4.
Suggest you get your rubber tyres from overseas if you want to save some money.
🙂
Yep just a bit too hot yesterday for me looks like the christmas shopping is done.
Who’s up for some mini-z drag racing next year ?
:p
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