kevsta
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Quote:no worries… thought you’d at least want to keep the #1 gear in case of future issues… will have
$$ for you SundayExcellent.
No need, I got a few packs of the delrin ones in my parts box and can’t see myself using them unless I crash hard into a track barrier.
Quote:i’ll take them dood…:smiley2: Stu; sweet. might just have to get the track out now. ‘Bout time, sez all!!:DI’ll bring them on Sunday afternoon.
I’m still on my original servo gears so don’t have any use for them.
Good stuff !
Nice to see that you don’t get blinded by a flying tyre.
I should be okay for it, but will know later in the week.
Anyone interested in mini-z alloy servo gears all 3 of them for $20 ?
:smiley16:
Quote:well i just got done with my first order and it all turned out well. i had to send pics of my details to this address:this is because my cc was issued outside of the u.s.
they send you heaps of catalogues and coupons in your first shipment too!:p:8ball:Good to hear that it turned out well. I haven’t ordered from Tower yet. Every time I go into their international shipping calculator it seems to charge a *higher* than normal US shipping rate. For example, with the charger that I bought recently the calculator would charge $40 USD for shipping whereas US sellers on Ebay charge $22USD and thats for USPS international air mail.
Quote:me too!:smiley2:i’m no expert but here’s what i would do:
1. mask everything first, leaving the “blue” section clear. paint it blue. you can go a bit thick and messy as the outer side won’t show all those surface blemishes like “orange peel” and drips.
2. remove the roof mask and paint the whole thing white (so all the blue is covered.
3. remove the wheel mask and do your black guards. (try to stay on the guards, no need to go everywhere)
4. remove the grille mask and paint silver (again, just the grille.)
5. remove the window mask and bash it til it dies!:D
the most important part is the white layer. it should stop any of the black silver showing through to the outside. do 2 white coats if you wanna be sure.:8ball:
Edited by – betty.k on 21 February 2005 21:00:26
You’re a legend.
That’s sounds bloody good to me.
I’m off to the hobby shop to buy some spray paint.
🙂
Thanks for the help guys. This is what I’ll plan to do hopefully it won’t be too much work.
1. Mask off body portion next to wheel guards and side skirts.
2. Paint wheel guards and side skirts with black pc paint, several coats with brush.
3. Mask off body portion of front grill.
4. Paint front grill with silver/chrome pc paint, several coats with brush.
5. Remove Masking in points 1 & 3.
6. Mask off front grill, all windows, and Roof.
7. Paint body with blue pc paint spray can.
8. Remove roof mask.
9. Mask body around roof.
10. Paint roof with white paint.
11. Remove all masking.I envy those people that can do those fancy air brush designs…
🙂
Quote:Paint darker colours first, white comes last.Silver is usually pretty opaque, but pretty hard to paint with a brush (brush marks show up). PS12 Tamiya spray is the best coverage.
Okay, I have tamiya mask the one that looks like sticky tape, but for large surfaces what do I need to buy from the hobby shop to mask it off ?
Quote:kev.. it depends on ur packs if teh GPs were built poorly or over changed or wat not that would explain ther lack of permormance but i can guarrente the best cells u will get are matched GP3300sYeah, both g-maxx3300 and gp3300 were bought from overseas brand new, unmatched and assembled in stick packs. They’re both made in China. The g-maxx ones don’t heat up as much as the gp 3300 when charged and thats with a 30mv delta peak.
I guess if you buy the unmatched already assembled in stick packs you ain’t going to get good cells, I assume all the ‘A’ grade ones have gone to the companies that match them !?
🙂
Quote:Where can you get TB-02s for $250? I’ve been quoted $330+ for that from shops in melbourne 😯They go for $379 at Hobby co in Sydney.
Edited by – kevsta on 21 February 2005 11:51:09
Okay,
I’ve charged up my G-Maxx 3300s and GP 3300 battery sticks, and I’m sure the G-Maxx ones are better than the GP’s.
I don’t have numbers etc.. don’t know where to get them either, but my charger tells me that the G-Maxx ones charge up to 8.89 Volts whereas my GP3300s will only charge up to 8.59 Volts before hitting delta peak.
So I assume that the G-Maxx which hold the higher voltage will give more power than the GP’s ?
Run time wise with a stock tamiya silver can, I’m getting about 30 minutes of continuous running for both batteries.
From Tower… Don’t they give you 75 Mhz crystals ?
Blue for me.
🙂
Quote:Not sure if anyone out there has experienced a short running life with the iWaver X-Speed? I’ve come across two so far that have shorted out one occasion frying my FETs and almost setting my pcb on fire!Opened up the motor, not surprised that the brushes had worn down to nothing at all! This is where you get what you pay for, got them for USD $0.99 from TE which sounds attractive for the performance you get but it’s only short term.
Does anyone use a motor that has good quality brushes that are easy to change? The Kyosho x-speed is good quality but a pain to pry open as you need to bend the metal body tabs to get the thing apart. If you wee able to pry it open the metal tabs will eventually weaken and break off. Is there a motor out there that’s screwed or bolted together?
I’ve seen those Atomic ones but think they still have those metal tabs you need to pry open.
Aaron, if those new PN motors have easy to replace quality brushes and can open easily think i’ll give them a try.
Dude, the atomic ones don’t need to opened to replace brushes.
🙂
23T and I’ll have one soon coz they’re cheap
Quote:yeah ill be there this sunday hopefully nothing this weeks distracks me from going there!Same here. Going to run 1:10 tourer & fet mini-z.
Hmm.. meadowbank this weekend…
Dave… got your tc3 yet ?
TD, you still going ?
Nice video. I think mini-z’s would take off in Australia if more people saw how fun these rc’s are.
Always bad when the hard disk dies aren’t they suppose to have a lifespan of 5 years ?
I usually fit multiple hard drives and use a freeware program called backup genie to schedule zipped backups on to each drive.
But this probably doesn’t cover the powersupply burning up and zapping every single device in your pc. (It’s happened to me before).
Best to back up on dvd-rw.
That’s great news. I’ve always wanted one of those fancy pn-racing motor mounts.
🙂Also get yourself some soft compound tyres 20 degrees or less. Stock tyres on tiles won’t get you anywhere far.
Quote:from what i’ve read full on modified racers tend to charge at around 4 amps for endurance and stock racers charge at around 6 amps for the extra punch. i personally charge at 3 amps because that’s all i get before my charger goes on strike!:8ball:I just charged the 3300 battery pack at 4 amps this morning, it did it in 57 minutes, it hit 8.79Volts then charger hit the change in peak and stopped. Power supply runs hot though, had to put a fan to it to cool it down.
On the track, I did notice the extra punch 😀
I’ve been having a bit of fun with this lately and I got to say that I’m pretty happy with it.
Now who wants a race ? anyone ?
Quote:you dont like magic the gathering big dave? ive got a pretty big collection but i dont put any more money into it… its a great game tho and has stood the test of time compared to many other card “fads” that are largely dependant on the younger market…kevsta, are you thinking of warcraft three? world of warcraft is an online rpg and has none of the gameplay elements of a real time strategy game. i to prefer c+c over the warcraft rts games. tanks are far more fun than beasts…
Sorry about that, I’m out of date with all of this.
😀
Usually the steering trim on the the tx does the job.
Another thing to check is your h-plate. Make sure it is mounted inline with your chassis and motor mount. If you undo the screws a little that hold the h-plate on both the chassis and motor mount, you can adjust it so that it is centered (or use a ruler to measure the distance of each rear wheel to the chassis).
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