micro_Amps
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Quote:What would you do if Bits became illegal to own
Well I guess I would have to get into the blackmarket trade and become a dealer.
Bitchargs would be bought and sold by suss lookin characters in dark alleyways, chassis wrapped in little packets of foil……Or have I gone too far…..again…..
:)uA
I have more than 15, and that doesnt include the Mad Tune and a puchi maru as well.
Obsessed….yeh maybe
Micro RC rocks
:)uAsmall world hey:approve:
Hey ph2t just to tease you, just before christmas Kmart had the compact char-gs on special for $38.
You are limited to only the two frequencies tho.
:)uAI will never admit to that…..they’re not a toy…they’re not, they’re not :angry:
Yes, I have seen this in my bits but cant explain why. The motor will still run but only has a fraction of the power it had before.
The motor is damaged in some way. If you change the motor it will run fast again, but that motor will probably burn out too.
I have pulled apart the motors that have failed in this way (5 of them, 3×3.8s & 2×3.5s) and there is no obvious damage. If I put them back together they will run but still dont have much power like before.
Very strange. I think it is only a poor quality motor that goes like this. I have other motors that I have given a really hard time and they have survived really well. Let me ask you a question tho….have you oiled this motor that has started to run slow? The motors of mine that failed were lubricated, and I think this may have had something to do with it. Not sure tho.
Swap the motor with the other one and see how it goes and post the result.
uA:)Ph2t, I have tried essentially the same thing with average results. Let us know how you go tho.
I was running the Tx chip on 3v and the RF tx cct on 6v with no obvious change to range…go figure!
The biggest changes to range I have found is removing the cripple cap on the Rx pcb, changing the Rx aerial for a fine piano wire about 125mm long and retuning the vari-inductor on the car pcb. This got me about about 8 meters indoors and about 20 outdoors on a 27Mhz single speed twin cell bit. Also I noticed that holding the car up off the groud increases range by heaps. Not that it means anything for car enthusiasts but if you were to put the R/C gear into a plane the range is potentially 50+ meters.
Running the chip on 5V may produce a higher output signal if the output codes are switched from 0v to Vcc. I’d be interested to see your results.
uA 🙂Yeh, I’m in. I live way out of the city so if you nominate the place and the day (prefferably a Sunday) I’ll be there.
uA:)ph2t, congratulations on finally becoming an ‘original bit’ owner, about time too. Notice any difference in quality? I do like the look of those green controllers tho.
Aren’t the yellow Tomy motors B2.2s?…..anyway,
The original steering magnets aren’t standard ferrite or steel. I’m pretty sure they are a rare earth magnet anyway because they are extremely strong for their size. If you still want to persue it QFM is the only place I’ve seen that has magnets that small and they dont give a gauss measurement in comparison to the original mags. There is another way to increase steering strength, check your circuit diagram for the car pcb. There are smt current limiting resistors in the steering coil circuits. Reduce those values and up goes the steering coil current……..
The flipping turns can be controlled with tyre choice. Harder tyres on the front cause understeer, widening the turns but keeping them fast.
I use the softest stickiest tyres on the rear and mediums on the front, the car only just hangs on thru corners and handles really well.
Depends alot on the surface your driving on tho.
I havent tried springs on the front yet, and my lapdancing skills are severely diminished since I threw my back out limbo dancing.
Hope this helps.
:)uAQuote:My 57MHz booster doesnt run (or interfere with) my standard 57MHz car. So I suppose that means they would be able to run together. So with booster sets does that mean that we can run 8 together?Upon testing again it seems they do interfere.
I friend and I were running 2 together, I thought both were 57MHz with one a booster. I was wrong, wrong, wrong. Silly me :blush:blackeye:
uAMy 57MHz booster doesnt run (or interfere with) my standard 57MHz car. So I suppose that means they would be able to run together. So with booster sets does that mean that we can run 8 together?
They will probably fit and they will probably go very well. I have used all kinds of motors in my 350Z booster with no problems. Go for it.
I changed a 4B aerial to a telescopic and it made no difference 🙁
The booster machines come with a skyline GTR clear shell, chassis and shell only in the box.They dont come with controllers and the box is half the width of a normal BCG box. and as far as I know the only way to control these is with a 4B controller.
:)uAQuote:if you are to charge a dual bat modded bit (2.4V on car) with a 6V supply (4*AA bats) won’t you blow the board?ph2t, if you look at the cct diag for the Rx, you will see a componnet that the 1.2v goes into before it goes to the rxc2 chip. This is a dc-dc device that has a stabilised 3.3v output. This 3.3v output does not change as the Vcc is changed, although I dont know how high (or low) you can go with Vcc before you cause problems. A range of 1.2v to 6v certainly works OK tho. If you blow something by going too high with Vcc, it will probably be this component.
As far as charging a 2.4v bit goes, a 4xAA 6V setup self ‘limits’ the charging current to just over an amp on first commection…..due to the internal resistance of the AAs I think. If you were to use a small 6V lead acid battery, the initial charging current is well over 2 amps and the 1/3AAAs get hot before they are charged. A series load resistor (2ohm 5W) softens the peak at connection, and flattens the current curve as the cells resistance increases.
Hope this helps.Geography update…….
I’m sitting in a noisey little internet “cafe” (and I use that term very loosely) while the wife has a massage on Charwen beach, Koh Samui, Thailand. No sign of bits in the stores here, but it is a resort island so I’ll wait until Bangkok next week. Missing my little cars but lots and lots of distractions. Weather, food, hospitality, people and places are all amazing. Waitor, bring me another drink…
uA :D:D:D:D:DThe blue one on the top left looks like a ‘Jap perfection’ 3.8. Does it run that quick tho?
The Jap perfection motors are the only ones that I know have that cap over where the shaft comes out at the back of the motor. There might be others that have that cap too , but I havent seen them.
No idea what the motor is the middle on the top pic.
Check the net for the Jap perfection motors, they may show those types of motors with the different colours / speedsCouldnt resist the free internet access in the boarding lounge at Bangkok airport :p
How about an indoor basketball court or tennis court, if we want to have a drive session that is.
For a purely social ‘meet and greet’ session, I think a pub would be fine.Sounds like a connection problem between the charging contacts and the battery. Check these.
When its not on the charger, do you have any voltage on the charging contacts under the car, because you should have. Check the batteries directly with a multimeter to see if there is any voltage on them.
If there is voltage on the batteries but not on the contacts, then your problem is somewhere in there.
:)uAYou can usually just scrape the wax out, but very gently. Thats if you want to adjust it from the ‘pot’ side. You can get access from the pcb side but the hole is very small and its easier to go from the other side. But you have to flip the pcb first.
The main reason you use a non metallic screw driver to adjust it is that a metal screwdriver will alter the inductance of the coil whilst it is inserted. When you remove the metal screwdriver, you will find the adjustment you have made will be different. It does not specifically have to be a ceramic screwdriver, anything non matallic will do. A sharpened piece of dowel or plastic rod trimmed down to a small screwdriver shape works just as well. Then when you remove it, the tuning adjustment you have made remains unaltered.
The way I tune my aerials in is to put a rubber band around the controller so the steering is always on in one direction. Then with the car in my hand away from my body, go for a walk until the steering starts to flicker. When the steering ceases to work, adjust the pot 1/4 turn one way or the other. If the steering starts to work again, keep walking further away fron the controller. Keep doing this until the adjustments make no more difference. You should now be at the maximum range that your car will go. Some cars will go 2m some will go 40m, I’m not really sure why…yet. Remember to hold the car away from your body when you are tuning the aerial, as your body will shield the car from receiving the controllers signal.
:)uACheck out all the connections KITT, sounds like you might have 2 or more pins shorting together.
:)uAA booster with a NiMH cell and 3.8 motor is probably the easiest way to get max. fun out of a bit cheaply
Not sure about the max. but 6v is no problem.
WOW, the keyence stuff is amazing.
A long way from you IB, thats for sure.
There is no way this litle baby is going to be opened.
I have given up on the safety deposit idea in Melbourne…too much travelling :smiley2:
I have decided to install a safe at home instead.:shock:
Combo lock, drill proof, explosion proof, and mounted on a base of 3 feet of concrete.
Gonna beef up security too. More patrolling guards around the clock and extra dogs too.You can never be too careful you know.
:smiley2::)uA
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