PandaBear
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Be careful buying rechargeable batteries in HK… I saw many “dubious” cells sold alongside cheap Guci bags, Rollex watches and Channel perfumes.
Hell, some “Sonny” AAs were even labelled 3000mAh!! 🙂
After I posted that, I went out and stocked up on Sony 800mAhs. :blush:
Right after I did that, me turned the corner and found… genuine Sanyo-branded 850mAh AAAs. blackeye:
Was too depressed to ask how much they were, looked like fresh new stock too.
If anyone’s looking for AAs, Sanyos have gone 2500mAh. Bought some last week.
Quote:…Adjusting the ball diff is a hassle though, got to remove a few things to get to it.No need.
Just pop off the top suspension link on the screw side (RH rear, LH front?), pull the dogbone out and stick a 1.5mm allen driver down the hole. Hold driver still and adjust diff by turning the other wheel.
Being sloppy with paint is probably the worst place to add weight to any racecar – all the weight is “up top” and adversely affects roll & handling.
Metallic paints are usually heavier than solid colours too.
If you need to add weight, add it as low as possible – below the level of the axles, on the chassis usually. Most ppl use the stickon lead blobs used for alloy wheel baancing, can buy them from a tyreshop.
Looks beaut, Leon!! :smiley16:
Oh dear, I must have broken every one!! 👿 At least
1
4
2
6
5
7
8
9
3
10
👿no chance on #11 :p
What kind of radio range are you boys getting?
Anything more than 10 feet? blackeye:
Quote:Nice work Panda:) I saw this online and thought it was a good start at a paint tutorial, what do you think? As you are the resident paint expert..http://www.tinyimports.com/Tutorials/Painting/paint_tutorial.htm
(I usually use primer and no wax)
That’s for ABS shells only though. That’s what 1/24th static kits are, also “hardshell” old Tamiyas.
Yeah, depending on what kind of finish you’re after, you might give it a polish or even a quick wet-n-dry with 3000 grit.
Painting lexan is all reversed – painted from the back.
The yanks use mayo as a dipping sauce for their french fries… ok I guess.
But I still prefer dipping FFs into McD’s softserve. :blush:
Quote:how are thoughs rear body mounts on the B4 done?
they look differentyea, they’re DIY 🙂
Velcro dots perched on little discs of plastic about 10c coin size,
hotglued to the stubs of the bodyposts.The shell doesn’t come with holes so we didn’t cut any.
Its only for shelf display, friend ain’t running that.Quote:also is that the tamiya legacy B4 .. how does it run there meant to be a total beast ontrack.nah that’s the ABC Hobbies’ original B4.
The Tamiya B4 Legacy (Jap model) is called Liberty GT here.
Tamiya shell is a “race” blob without any pretty details.Quote:so the gold flake is a bit textured is it? and how expensive where they?Could be the lacquer around the bits got a bit too gluggy… :p
Pactra 2″ bottles are about $10. Have tried a few other colours and also get the ‘cobweb’ problem, probably my brush is running too high pressure or air volume. (Tamiya SprayWork keeps the air flowing constantly & no pressure adjustment/regulation.)
Pactra is a turps/oil lacquer and it stinks. They were the first available in the fancy colours… but then Fascolor came along.
Just an odd thought, but seeing that I think it was a TFTR raceday today (14th) the next one is probably on the 28th. blackeye:
You boys ever interested in seeing some big Big BIG trucks whacking the dirt??
I think the Melbourne AUSRC mob were talking about getting together for a ‘bash’ on the 28th. Interested in tagging along?
I’ll keep snooping and update you guys on where/when. :smiley16:
Revo looks like a nice race truck but I don’t think it’ll stand up to the rigours of bashing – not the definition of “bashing” the local boys here think it as anyway.
Isn’t it time you visited mainland again, J old boy? 🙂
Quote:first up i found sbcg’s labelled as compact char g. they had the ferrari and lambo jota at my local toyworld, $39.99.KMart had 15% off yesterday… and all those SCCGs were on the shelf.
Quote:but the bargain i couldn’t leave behind is this; a 40 pce rotary tool for $35!!:shock:DSE sells them for $24 according to the dropout flyer that came with last week’s local rag.
Which is probably worth it if (1) you’re buying it for a single use application or (2) your mates/neighbours/family borrow your tools a lot.
But imho I like using quality tools, makes the job so much nicer to do. If you want a real Dremel pass the word around to your family, they’re at a great pricerange ideal for a present item. They’re often onsale for Father’s day etc etc too.
Quote:…this looks good too…http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/47202maxclimber/index.htm
hmm?
Max Climber has been out a while… mine came from the first batch, got it landed Melb in August.
What the Baja King needs is a Novak Brushless… 👿
But like most things in life, Size does matter.
Bigger is always better if its RC vs The World.I’m sure Surikarn had a whole fleet of cars at his disposal, he just has to choose. 🙂
But at that level, anyone could have taken it.
Its all down to luck more than anything else.Happy Birthday!
How didja twig, merc? :blush:
More news & pix at http://www.teamorion.com/live/results-cars.asp?id=157
Note 2PH =/= 2PHKA, the “MS” 2PH misses the end point adjustments and the chrome steering wheel.
2PL for US99… might as well get it locally for A$175 – it’ll be on 29MHz which is better for Oz than 27 (too few freq choices) or 75 (illegal).
2PHKA “MJ” with 2 servos usually goes for about $140 at Oz shop – good value.
How about Dunkin’ Donuts, or Donut King, or Krispy Kreme then..? 👿
McD’s is too healthy these days.
Think its obscene to buy salads at McD’s. :poh yeah, “DON’T PANIC”. 😀
Try putting a powercap (electrolytic cap say 680-3000uF) across the battery inputs, and a Schottky diode across the motor terminals.
Nah, beef up the FETs – can’t get too much of a good thing.
Slow your car down using a stock motor and smallest pinion gear.
If its only the FETs that have blown, there’s a good chance it can be fixed (either with new same FETs, or better ones).
Or maybe a Nelly is in your future.
Either way ph2t is the man to speak to.
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