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there gonna be like the auto med. set nothing is gonna change and there gonna be $25.9usd

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some times you get really good motors. last week i bought a new boster and a bought a 3.0 and the 3.0 is fater than my 4.0

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well theres machine wound and handwound. you can tunr a x speed into a missle if you know how to wind motors. i uses a pn ballbering can and brushes and neo magnets and made a 7 turn hex i had to do a 2X12 stack but i beat 1/10 scale nitro cars with my mini.

the abaluse fastest motors you can buy for a mini z is made in cali. and its a 8turn quad outta the box and its perfectly ballanced. and it was made for drag racing. but the down side is its a $80 usd motor

heres some things you gotta look at. do you have a turbo or fets. if you dont have any the lowest turn motor you can go is 47 so a x speed is the fastest. with a turbo i wouldent go lower than a 38 turn. with 2X6 you could do 30 turn safely and with 2X12 you can run just about anything.

nml has a supersonice handwound for around $56 usd its kinda fast but you need atleast 2X6 fets for it. and its $56 usd

if you dont wanna spend a bunch of money heres some motors that are fast. the tamiya mini 4wd motors are a good choice for cheep but fast motors just replace the brushes in them.

the stock esc in a mini z can handle up to the hyperdash with a turbo you can handle the ultra dash and with a 2X6 you can handle the plasma dash it has about 29,000 rpm’s on the good motors but there are duds like the x speed. and has alot of low end power and if you put neo magnets in it all your gonna do it roast the tires. the ultra dash motors and the outhere at around $4-5 uds and the plasma dash is $9 usd.

i have all the tamiya moters and tested them all and for the most bang for your buck you cant beat them.

but as for the fastest motors in a mini z so far that i know of its mine the 7 turn hex. its the only motor that is that low in turns that hasent flung apart inside the case why it was on. i would make more and sell them on ebay but it takes me about 8 hours to wind 1 and my hands cramp up to bad.

but if you wanna make a handwound i can give ya some pointers and tell you how to and what to use,

also i cant stress this enought BRAKE IN YOUR MOTORS!!!! just dip them in water and run 2 AAA batts to the motor untill the water tuns cloudy then just either blow dry it or dip it in alch. to dtu it and put a few com drops on it and oil the berings.

but the lower the turns the faster the moter the higher the winds the faster the motor so a 20 turn single wont be faster than a 25 turn hex it will be faster off the line but in the long run the 25 hex will beat it.

but remember all the motors i use are custom made 130 for use on 1/18th scale cars so there made ta power heaver things.

but my 7 hex with 18c flat tires or high grip foams cant be nailed off the line you gotta go 20
% then 50% the 00% throtle to keep it from spinning out.

if you plan on racing dont go lower than a 36 turn if you just wanna go straght then by all means get some wire and handwind your own beast its cheeper faster and its like droping a blowen 514 in a omni

but make shure you have everything you need to adj. your suspension i highly recament a o plate i got all the specs on the 1 i use and what springs on the sd and front.

but just remember with my 7 turn i put my 4 into a wall at 1/2 speed and boke just about all my front end and bent the rest so alu. or plastic at that fast with 1 of these cars it dosent mater when you biff you biff hard.

im selling a 17 turn dubble anodized blue can blue wire on the motor com was just cutso its like new

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about 6 days till i get it got it from a friend who lives in japan and bought it for me so i sent him $250 usd . i can get another 1 from him if anyone wants 1 so pm me first come first person to pm me gets his e mail so just talk to him there and ask him for pics

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legos glue and a refrigator box and you got a nice track for cheep.

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i got 1 and the lambo body looks like shit. its to high and to skinny ta be a lambo it need ta sit lower and wider. so i swited to my nur body

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so in outherwords is sucks di@% and aint worth a wellfare check

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get the new hitec aggresser its about $60uds with 2 servos

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i ran it when i had 2X6

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let me interduce you to my friend “thredlock”

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there cool as he$$ hoped up. you can totaly hop 1 up for about $60-70 usd

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i wont buy 1 the controle looks cheep as $%#%.

rims gotta go to the look cheesy i like the bmw rims and the skyline or alt. rims

i dont care to much for the chassy either and from the pics i saw of them do they only take 2 batt’s?

but then again i cant trash talk it till i get 1 so im gonna drop $40 tomorrow and buy 1, i thought the mini z was a lil peace of %*#$ till i tryed it out and now i got 3

how fast is it and how light post some specs on it

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get a duratrax pulse charger i think there $80usd but some can charge 2 batt’s at the same time.

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i got a e max a clodbuster with a ripper chassy a clodzilla 4 and soon to have monster gt.

e max is fast allmost as fast as the stock tmax pre 2.0 it handles nice and is allaround a nice truck for racing. me on the outher hand im into more of clods. i like there suspension how light the race chassys are and lets just face it there huge

my all time fav. 2wd monster truck is the stampeed it was my first truck and i love it. it was fast stock and you can make it really fast. it handled well and had enought ground clanrance for most offroad action.

tips the the maxx are dont get mod’s in it inless you cut down on cells and dump the stock esc. stock its fast enought i put 2 15 turn phantom handwounds in mine and used a novak gt1 esc and it gets hot but hasent melted yet but im only running 1 pack.

what i like about the maxx is at the flip of a button on your remote you got hi and low gears so that takes care of gearing.

at the moment in my free time im putting txt-1 gear boxs on my emaxx so it will have the clod like suspension` so far it coust $120 and i gotta lost more tweeking ta do bt new era is comeing out with a kit like the 1 im trying to make soon

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some have box stock what is whatever cam with your car you use or open stock what is just a stock motor.

i like the tc3 becoue its a nice lay out and its the fasterst cornering car ever made. the ball diff is 1 of the smoothest diffs i ever felt

theres the rtr tc3 racer kit tc3 team kit tc3 and the factory team kit. the factory team has all the blue bling bling alu. parts in the box but everyone i talked to told me ta get the racer becouse its faster.

if this is your first 1/10 touring car i would go for the tc3

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americans are knowen for overpowering stuff. as for weight reduction my car weighs about 4 oz compared to the stock 6.24

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well i ben running my plasma on 4 cells for about months and all mine are fine. i got a 2X12 stack with my plasma and it hulls

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http://www.towerhobbies.com has them use code 01V9 thats $10 off a $24.99 order or more

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if your gonna race stock go for the tc3 those are fast as heck stock

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from what im told the jr plasma dash is 1/2 the power as the mini 4wd and the mini 4wd has harder brushes. i think the plasma has 29,000 rpm’s the motor is a more than worthy match for a micro rs4 with a orion big block.

i just ran my z 2X12 stacked fets and raced a mini 4wd and beat him he had a orion big block and 7.2 volt pack.

but plasmas are like x speeds sometimes you get a slow pos and some times you get somthing with like 35,000 rpm’s is the highest i seen

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mine dus

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yeah it should be easy but the pcb is so scarred its hard but when we figure out how ta do it z’s will never be the same again today i started a revalution in mini z’s

i got a orion flash. has no motor limit so i’ll use my 17 turn quad and can handle up to 8 cells so can you say top speed of about 70mph easy.

now heres my plan for this little mod 8 cells will fry the car so im gonna use a reciver pack and wire it up to power the reciver and servo them im gonna use the stock 4 cell mounts and drop 4 more somewhare in the car.

right now im craming a orion big block in my pn racing mount i had to make a mount plate but so far so good. i just hope my 2X12 stack can handle it

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well they have nice tc3 rtr kits that are race ready they got a 19 turn reedy mod. proline body rims and tires hitec linx radio. and the racer kit aka the rtr kit is faster than the team and factory team kit just read on it and it was by the guy who desighned the car.

if you dont know people who can make custom parts go with the tc3 just about everyone makes parts for the car and there not all that much.

if you do get the tc3 hese some things to buy with it. the large fin heat sink for the motor. threded shock set “really nice shocks i use them” and maybe the alu. drive shaft from hardcore racing becouse my phantom broke my stock shaft. and i think they just got a tc3 to do 110mph maybe a lil more i forgot but they used a 15 turn look on there website they posted it.

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alot of people at my track run tc3’s hpi pro 3’s. most people use 12-15 turns

i only raced with 1 losi xxx-s in the past 3 months and it looks like a nice lil car

i use a tamiya trf414mkll with a 11 turn phantom handwound but that motor is over kill.

but really some things you gotta look at are do you like shaft or belt? i personal like belt drive but outher people say shaft drive is better

but how i found my car is i went to a few tracks and asked guys if i could test there car becouse i was thinking of 1 and i drove the tamyia and i loved how it handles and it can pick up speed fast comeing out of the corners.

but look at each cars specs weight suspension setup motor placement.

butif you want a full bore race car then go for the tc3 at http://www.racinghardcore.com and buy 1 of there full opption tc3

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yeah i payed $20 usd for mine

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