Aaron
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Latest Pic of the Body (well new body). TopCad diff is now in the car and it’s free rolling on fresh bearings and getting a new electronics package.
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Site Owner Guy.Some more pics.
We’ve got the MR-02 Chassis being rejigged at the moment. The Suspension setup has been simplified and we’re about to bolt up some new Electronics (Spider v2.1 DS), new motor and should be hitting the ground real sool.
We’ve removed the Kawada diff and switched back to TopCad, and some fresh PN Bearings. The Body is still a Firelap Mclaren F1 in silver, this time around wearing some decals as shown.
Then we’ve got the R34 Skyline. This was one of our first two Mini-Z and is a MR-01. Instead of slipping this body over a AWD chassis we’re sticking with the MR-01 chassis and just updating the mechanical package. The IRF7389 5×2 FET stacks will be staying.
Going into the MR-01 Skyline:
- GPM Alloy servo gears (All three)
- PN Racing MR-01 motor mount
- PN Anima Motor
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah teh wheels bolt up the same. There’s only 3 basic wheel types.
Narrow 0 offset. These suit all the “Narrow” bodies.
Wide 0 Offset. These are used in the wider bodies. Usually as a rear only, but some shells will let you run wide at both ends.Then there’s the 2.5mm Offset wheels that are basically a narrow wheel that sits out as far as the wide wheels do for the wider shells up front.
It’s a little confusing, but the best thing to do is buy a some cheaper plastic wheel sets (Kyosho or iWaver) and have a combo of things to try out – then buy the alloys when you know what combos work.
The Gandinis are a terrific product and when the stock is gone we may not be able to source more as our supply chain is being made far more complex than it should be.
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Site Owner Guy.I’m doing a customer stack tomorrow so will snap some pics and post 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah on the motor terminal side I remove the solder resist (green stuff) between the pins. Then when soldering the stacks up I bridge them in two solid columns per stack – some people bridge all 4 pins bit that’s over kill. It gives a slight heatsink effect, adds mechanical strength and is easier than doing another 8 single pin strips (which you must do on the other side).
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Site Owner Guy.Ohhh – I should add:
iWaver 01 = MR-01
iWaver 02 / Firelap 02 = MR-02
iWaver 04 / Firelap 04 = MonsterAnd the Dogs balls description of the iWaver 01 pretty much matches my first experience with a Kyosho MR-01.
They do get better with Bearings and a Diff. 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.On the body or on the chassis? have a browse through the shop (http://shop.ausmicro.net) – you’ll get an idea of our prices and what we try to carry in stock all the time.
FET stacking is where the main chips (FETs) that run the motor get removed fromt eh board and a number of new higher performance FET are put in their place. To increase the performance these are stacked so they’re wired in Parallel.
Good batteries do make a difference and bearings also will increase run-times. Overally some alloy mounts, some bearings, a FET stack or external turbo plus a motor would cost around the AUD100 mark. I woudl suggest bearings and Warm motor first 🙂 (Under AUD50)
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Site Owner Guy.May 2006 – $0.51c
June 2006 – $1.79c*laughs* Big earnings there!
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah that’s the basic info. We’re _still_ waiting for our shipment to come…
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Site Owner Guy.We now have PN Racing laydown crystal mounts in stock.
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Site Owner Guy.Welcome 🙂
I’ve only just secured myself an overland but from our experience in selling parts the overlands have very few weak spots.
You should look at investing in some alloy suspension mounts as these tend to get broken. After that the most common failure seesm to be ripping the ball joints out of hte gearbox and servo cases. Easiest fix is just to replace the parts as they break – and try not to hit things as hard 😉
Cover the basics like Bearings (for under $20) and a carefull check of rolling resistance (Free) first.
To get more speed you could try a PN Speedy05 or Speedy05BB or even an NM if you want stump pulling torque. These motros will all run well with stock FETs, once you move to hotter motors you need to consider FET stacks (IRF7317) or an External turbo (Spider or WoahNelly).
We’ve found a lot of people are happy running a Spider and PN Saber motor in Monsters and Overlands. It’s a quick and torquey combo that still can be driven gently around the house.
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Site Owner Guy.You and me both. GPM Ball-diffs, Gearboxes and so forth coming soon. Then I just gotta find time to re-assemble it.
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Site Owner Guy.There are some good deals on the MiniInferno these days aren’t there. The iWaver TX is a good unit though.
My Nano is still in bits, but there’s a swag of new parts on the way into it from TopCad and GPM. It’s getting heavier but looking sharp.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah, the new Minis are quite large, and don’t forget that Kyosho does play with the scales a little to suit the Wheel base of their chassis.
The new iWaver 02M chassis coming this month will be interesting
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Site Owner Guy.Still haven’t bolted in all the parts 🙁
Just a bit snowed under with other projects.
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Site Owner Guy.Our Japanese suppliers list them, but they are quite high priced, much like the AWD chassis set.
Want me to chased a confirmed price to your door?
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Site Owner Guy.I have these for building Spiders etc, however we get them with wires already crimped on. If you’re interested I have about 100 around the place. Unfortunately I haven’t found where to buy the terminal individually yet.
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Site Owner Guy.Fixed. Problem was a security hole in the old v3 code that allowed a replacement homepage to be uploaded. I’ll be removing the old stuff soon so it can’t/wont happen again.
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Site Owner Guy.Oggy, in a few weeks the new generation IW 27Mhz FM gear will be out. Complete with digital Tx etc.
There’s probably a good chance the board could transplant..
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Site Owner Guy.I don’t have a Blue/Grey around – just a clear blue, but I can chuck one in my next order for you.
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Site Owner Guy.Sure will – probably Monday – I need to reassemble the front and rear ends around some more new parts that arrived yesterday.
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Site Owner Guy.OK hasn’t happened so fast…. 🙂
On the list of things to do…
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Site Owner Guy.rcs2die4 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys !!!
And I know the nano/iwaver TX’s aren’t the sickest but they definitely look a damn sight better then half8 one does !!!Aaron !! Will the ESC/Receiver box fit turned 90 degres as I would like to fit a fake nitro head to the heat sink like the Half8 has ??
“New” generation Tx is much better than the originals, if only in the way it feels.
The ESC case base is molded inone piece with the battery cover, so it can’t spin 90 degrees, but the Kyosho parts would possibly do the trick… I haven’t worried about mine as I never liked the heatsink look. However I have got alloy front and rear suspensionincluding alloy bodied dampers, all new shafts and CVDs and complete bearings and 8-cell battery pack. Makes it quick, I never broke the stock plastics but wanted to check compatibility.
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Site Owner Guy.There’s three options for the chassis:
The coloured ones – they’re clear and brittle
The stock original one
The Other Kyosho grey oneI think the grey one has the best chance of toughness, certainly the other two options are definately brittle. I do need to re-chassis mine but haven’t had a chance yet!
Got my PN Knuckles, PN motor mounts, and Kyosho alloy uni-shafts to go in too…
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Site Owner Guy.The NanoDragons are a very very close match. I’ve not found any part that I haven’t been able to replace/upgrade with Kyosho Mini-Inferno parts. the minor exception being some Atomic buts and it was the Atomic parts that weren’t quite right.
The Nanos are a good buggy, great hack around and with bearings everywhere except the hubs they’re well featured at a great price.
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Site Owner Guy. -
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