betty.k
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if their alloy stuff is priced like their cf stuff then i’ll give it a miss! i’m sure it will be excellent quality though.
yes, all 4 wheels are flipped and yes, brilliantly stable! the wheelbase is now 73mm wide (i forget what i was stock, about 5mm less). it’s the same sorta thing as going from narrow z rims to wide offset. you may need to shave some plastic from the outside so it won’t rub on the knuckles/swingarm and you will need to add a washer or 2.:8ball:
probably around 40 turns on a stock xmod to be sure.
2 x 20 turns is a damn hot motor, you may find it lacks torque:8ball:about 10 minutes i’d say! ha! i crack me up:8ball:
when winding motors;
more turns = more torque, less current draw, less top speed.
more strands = less torque, more current draw, more top speed.if you’re using a z then a high 20’s motor will be good and in an xmod mid 30’s works well. personally i think single strand motors are fine.
motors create radio noise which means nothing in a mini 4wd, but in a car with radio gear this causes interference and therefore a loss of control. capacitors are used on the motor can to shield this noise. perhaps big holes in the can allow this noise to escape but i doubt it.:8ball:
i got some stuff brewing in my gallery, this should be fun!:8ball:
it’s all parta the job!:D:8ball:
i wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss a ventilated can. it can greatly increase the life of a motor and all it’s parts.
as for xmods vs z’s i’m all about the xmod to the power of 10!:p awd, tougher than leather, hard as hell! (yo wherez ma adeedas!):8ball:
aww, i was just guiding him around my yard is all!:D
now you all know why i love the xmod over the mr01 so much. hitting top speed and turning full lock presents little problems for the xmod, it just goes where you point it.
and for all the bashing and crashing we did the foamies were the only damaged items. i didn’t even have to reset my body.:smiley16::8ball:that slam into the garage sounds just as bad on video!:D:8ball:
don’t go telling me 1:28 is too small for off road!:smiley2::8ball:
so how soon are we gonna be seeing 1:28 4wd offroaders en mass? and by who? my hit prediction is radio shack:8ball:
Edited by – betty.k on 05 November 2004 16:26:40
wowsers!:p thatsa worthy first monster for sure, you might get 10 mins out of it before something breaks as opposed to the 2 minute “melbourning” i’m used to seeing!:8ball:
yeesh!:shock: so how long before we see sony ericsson 1:18 monsters?! or kambrook or pioneer! seems like everyone’s putting them out now:8ball:
if they release the 2nd gen here they should be renamed “super slicks fully sick”:D:8ball:
well you’re both right. biff is off the market now.:8ball:

righto. get off toyo’s back!:D all ya’ll!
what you’ve all failed to notice is that he’s using enertec cars. the pcb is completely different to that of a bcg or zz. it uses a completely different ic (“pt” type) and has a strange 5 fet h bridge. yes that’s right, it already has fets!
check dis (my first post too!):
http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1378&FORUM_ID=9&CAT_ID=2&Topic_Title=enertec+micro+racers&Forum_Title=Bit+CharG+and+Micro+Radio+Controlled+%2D+Technicalso while it’s possible to upgrade the fets on an enertec pcb, it’s “a pain in the arse!”
if you guys want him to have a fetted bcg pcb to play with, send him one!:smiley2::8ball:
Edited by – betty.k on 02 November 2004 16:53:08
mew, mew, purrrr!!:clown::8ball:

4.2’s may rev higher but they won’t have much torque. the only bit plane i’ve seen was microamps’. it had a fetted pcb, lipo pack, and a micro flight motor (about the size of the zz monster’s motor). this plane was fairly slow so a 4.2 would be lucky if it created a breeze:8ball:
cc = cubic centimeters.
torque = turning force
perfection motors marketing dept = good story tellers!:D:8ball:
this one:8ball:

well i’m pretty sure i’ve killed this esc and ordered a new one (apex “cubic”). but i wanna know if it’s worth keeping and repairing? or do i throw it in the “education” pile?:D
second question is regarding my motor (tamiya super stock type r). i wanna know (panda)if i can change the timing with this model and how. the new esc is forward and reverse and i think the timing is advanced on my motor making reverse a no no (so i’m told, i’m really outta my league here!). this motor doesn’t look rebuildable to me (how do you know?) so i wanna get clued up before attempting any nonsense. if i have to buy a new motor then i will.
ooo, one more quick one, how do know when it’s time to replace your brushes?:8ball:
tomy don’t make a 3.8, “bcg motors” do. but you’re right, it’s a nice motor. you wanna good motor? get a zz purple nitrous express. might take some work getting it in the chassis but well worth it.
lipo batts are 3.6v so dual lipo will give you 7.2v. i think this is way too much unless it’s gonna be a drag car. one lipo or 2 regular batts is plenty fast enough for track racing, maybe still too much. honestly, go with a single cell with fets. plenty of power and nice and light.
icebreaka, i may be discovering new scales but when i turn up to the 1:10 racetrack there’s at least one 1:64 with me!:8ball:
yup, that’s the one. but you’re better off getting them from their source, http://www.toyeast.com/index2.asp:8ball:
this site suffers from technical issues so your previous posts may have been lost entirely. i think you have to murder aaron’s family before he deletes one of your posts!:D
now onto the answers. first up, if you think micro sizers are a poor comparison to zip zaps, then buy a zz!
i’d recommend a ms pro (2 speed) as it’s good to have the slower speed for technical sections and you can always bypass this feature by doing what you already do, ride the boost botton.
after that there’s no 1 definitive answer to “how do i make a race winning car”. it’s a combination of many things, motor, batteries (how many, what type), gears, tyres, steering, pcb, fets, etc, etc.but on race day there’s one contributing factor that can surpass all others; skill.:8ball:
hot damn! can’t wait for mine!:p:8ball:
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