betty.k

[betty.k]

i’ve mounted my cam in a 1:12 nikko buggy, it’s really funny tv! you really feel the landings!:8ball:

[betty.k]

this is (again!!) another question that can be answered by READING AND COMPREHENDING WRITTEN….. oh forget it. you’ll never learn:8ball:

[betty.k]

we need an interpreter for this topic:8ball:

[betty.k]

(man o man!!!!:dead:)

lesson 1.

red wire +

black wire not +:8ball:

[betty.k]

i just don’t know where to start.

i can’t believe that someone who doesn’t know what Vcc and GND means has the ordasity to think that he can magically find an incredible breakthrough in the way electricity flows. this is not astrology, there are no mystic interpretations, there is absolutely nothing to be gained by arsing about with the wiring. you can wrap the wires around the bloody car but they all have to match up the way ph2t explained it.

you are not going to make any electronic breakthroughs with your current attitude. you cannot even begin to redesign the h bridge without understanding basic (common fer us bruces) electrical knowledge. i mean… i ….agh….. i’m choking on my rage over here!
even the dumbest ausmicro members know what i mean. please, learn to:

a) comprehend information
b) listen to people who are educated in such matters
c) walk before you can run
d) stop annoying the crappin’ bajeezus out of people for the afformentioned reasons (or any other for that matter):8ball:

[betty.k]

this can’t go without comment!

bout
bolser
wodd
propellor
conect
of

=

boat
balsa
wood
propeller
connect
off

fer christ’s sake man!! there are too many ways to edit these messages!! learn howda spell real good!:8ball:

[betty.k]

sounds to me like a crappy faraday cage idea. if the heatsink envelopes the whole motor it should act as a shield to rf coming from the motor. but i’m just guessing:8ball:

[betty.k]

excellent work man!:smiley2: good to see someone getting their money outta their toys!

max, maybe try using windows media player. that’s what i used, worked for me:8ball:

[betty.k]

i got mine from an ebay shop called revolutionshop. AUD$81 shipped. i’ve had it in a z with a 9v battery and with a bit of stuffing around i’m betting it can be mounted right inside the body and with a dcdc converter and some filtering it could be run off the internal batts. i prefer a separate power supply to minimize interference.

UPDATE!
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20589&item=3193899769&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

in stock!!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

not sure what gauge wire, looks like .4mm. but it’s 40 turns:8ball:

[betty.k]

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/:8ball:

[betty.k]

the tank tx/rx is just a cheapy with a rx/tx2c chip, like bcg controllers. so far range for the tank and cam is 40 odd meters. and that’s through walls. i’ve never tried line of sight yet and i reckon the range would be better in the country.

it seems that distance isn’t the biggest range killer, rather it’s certain areas. there are some parts of my yard that are notorious for killing the signal, large metal objects like a garage door and phone lines are my biggest problems. around my place, 27mhz works best.:8ball:

[betty.k]

the camera runs on a nimh 9v batt which sits behind it. i made a frame and rollcage from mechano parts so it’s protected from rollovers.:8ball:

[betty.k]

i got whacked with the flu so i’ve been driving the camera tank lots. i’m gonna give it the twin biff treatment (tests are positive!) and a wireless mic is next. i’ve just given it a camo make over and sitting in the garden it’s vitually invisible as ph2t can confirm!:smiley2: pic here

http://community.webshots.com/photo/138036297/156810672GmpmlN

other than that a few body and chassis upgrades for the iwaver:8ball:

[betty.k]

imho = in my honest opinion
imo = in my opinion:8ball:

[betty.k]

heatshrink is rubbery sorta tubing use to insulate wire. buy it from an electronics shop in precut lengths. simply slide it over a solder join you want to insulate and heat with a mini hot air blower or a lighter. it will shrink and hold close to the join. you can just use electrical tape but heatshrink is neater and more durable

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=KEYWORD

lots to choose from there.

and you only need to post stuff like this once.:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 27 June 2004 17:16:08

[betty.k]

i’ve tried it once and it didn’t work. yet to try again:8ball:

[betty.k]

just remember. costs cost. and you gotta cover em. sounds like playschool i know but you’ll be surprised….:8ball:

[betty.k]

the plastic damper mounts break like raw noodles! when you break the stock one buy an alloy one first, don’t be tempted by the price of the plastic ones:8ball:

[betty.k]

trash put this link up a while back and i find it very useful and easy to understand.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/

covers nicad, nimh, lipo and lion batteries and their chargers:8ball:

[betty.k]

pete, rofl = rolling on floor laughing

and man, get on the weed! serenity NOW!!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

that’s true, but this is a mini z rear end, so it’s a mini z drivetrain:8ball:

[betty.k]

i’m using alloy mrs4 pinions and they work beautifully!

great stuff chino! looks like the best of both worlds (?):8ball:

[betty.k]

no sweat man!:smiley2:

…and welcome!:8ball:

[betty.k]

when you buy an iwaver it has a 6t pinion. you do not get any other pinions. you get spacers for use with other pinions, a wheel wrench, and a top mount motor mount, but no more pinions. pinions… there are none. pinions? no pinions!!:8ball:

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