jamiekulhanek
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A piece of black tape on the bottom of the chassis will stop spome of the crap getting into the car.
It might have some other electrical properties, like capacitance that might do something.
They look great dude!
Awesome!! That looks so cool.
Racer X, I posted a tutorial on this some time mid last year. It has since disappeared.
Soldering theory:
To solder a battery successfully, it i not enough to “drip” solder onto the contact on the battery.
For solder to bond with a surface, both the surfaces (wire and battery) need to reach the same temperature. Atleast 250 Degrees Celsuis.
The way you are soldering, is such that the wire is reaching 250+ Degrees Celsius, but you are not giving any time for the cell contact to heat up. It takes time!
How to solder cells:
First, tin the wires (using solder)
Then, solder a blob of solder onto the cell, hold the iron on until the solder flows across the cell as you add more solder.
Wasting no time, older the wire onto the pre soldered cell, leave till the solder sets, then cool the cell with an icepack to prevent internal damage.
Tips:
-Using sandpaper, prep the cell surface so it has a rough surface for the solder to stick to.
-Clean the contact of the battery
– Use a high wattage iron, that i very hot, this is so you get teh cell done quickly. A small low wattage iron will take longer, and exposing the cell to long duration heat can damage it, better to use more heat for less time.
-Always clean and Re-Tin the iron tip after every solder joint.
-Good Luck!!!
Racer X, I posted a tutorial on this some time mid last year. It has since disappeared.
Soldering theory:
To solder a battery successfully, it i not enough to “drip” solder onto the contact on the battery.
For solder to bond with a surface, both the surfaces (wire and battery) need to reach the same temperature. Atleast 250 Degrees Celsuis.
The way you are soldering, is such that the wire is reaching 250+ Degrees Celsius, but you are not giving any time for the cell contact to heat up. It takes time!
How to solder cells:
First, tin the wires (using solder)
Then, solder a blob of solder onto the cell, hold the iron on until the solder flows across the cell as you add more solder.
Wasting no time, older the wire onto the pre soldered cell, leave till the solder sets, then cool the cell with an icepack to prevent internal damage.
Tips:
-Using sandpaper, prep the cell surface so it has a rough surface for the solder to stick to.
-Clean the contact of the battery
– Use a high wattage iron, that i very hot, this is so you get teh cell done quickly. A small low wattage iron will take longer, and exposing the cell to long duration heat can damage it, better to use more heat for less time.
-Always clean and Re-Tin the iron tip after every solder joint.
-Good Luck!!!
Quote:Quote:The motor has Neodymium magnets and draws around 40A @ 14.4v, around 550W of power….just imagine this baby in an R/C car..That would be 40A *peak/instantaneous* right?
Otherwise I’m imagining a starter motor for a big V8… :p
Nope, 40 amps at full power, peak power would be alot higher than that.
Starter motors draw alot more than 40 A, their peak power is like 800 AMPS.
I can send them down sooner than the 30th.
WTF
Quote:Those that didn’t I now suspect are gay.
😀Hahahahaha!!! Maybe if you paint it bright pink they might take notice.
A bloke aint a bloke unless he takes an interest.
I don’t have a car yet, but my bro will let me drive (supervised) his 300kw RB25DET S13 Silvia 🙂
Ive got a motor scooter, giant ATX 900 pro, bits, 1/10’s, mini Z, planes etc.
Quote:In Canada, that’s over the speed limit. I’m afraid that I am going to have to report you to the police for speeding and driving the car without a permit.
I’m kidding about reporting you but really, that’s over the speed limit. Does it flip overt when you turn or can you actually steer the thing?Didn’t know tennis courts had a speed limit!!?? LOL yeah the limit in my street is 50km/h.
Ive got a few more trick up my sleeve just to squeeze more torque and speed. (maybe 10 km/h more)
This baby has EXPLOSIVE power, the motor has around 30 watts of power at the shaft, which is about as much power as a Johnson 540 motor.
Considering my motor is an FA-130 sized motor, its extremely potent, and u gotta be gentle on the loud trigger, or its wheelspinnin’ hoes grinnin’ to the max.
The car sounds great too, like its turbo charged or something.
Don’t use pullbacks they arent very grippy.
Nice pics, but i saw a serious error in them Aaron
Quote:And here I was thinking you’d knocked up some mini CV joints and were on the way to building a AWD bit….*ponders* Now that would be interesting 😉A.
I actually did that, I designed a 4WD pan chassis, with silicon cv joints, 4 wheel suspension, 4wd, using front knuckles drilled out with brass bushings and sway bars front and rear.
I made one CV joint and it worke a treat.
Time and CBFness seems to kill these small dreams of mine.
I build miniature indoor flyers, called hangar rats. The basic plane weighs around 4 grams ( i make them light) and has a 50 cm wingspan. Very delicate, but since it’s so light its very durable, hangar rash claimed 2 out of 3 planes ive lost, another was stolen by the heavens (disappeared into a cloud, it was my plane that won a airtime competition) :sad:. Since theres no rubber band, the fuselage doesnt need to be so rigid, so even less weight.
I might get a Clone PCB modded, and use it on one of these planes….
Lets seee…. weight (approx)
Battery 4.5 g
Motor 1.5 g
PCB 2.0 g
Magnet 1.5 g
Coils 3.0 g
Plane 4.0 g
Prop/GB 3.0 gNot bad, 19.5 grams, plus glue and a small balsa pushrod for the rudder (placing the coils at the rear requires weight at the front, which will cause porpoising).
Might tackle it soon!!
Yeah grab the HO springs, they are non magnetic and a breeze to cut down.
This thing is scary fast when you lie down and drive it past, just a flash of blue.
Barrell, you don’t want your car like mine, a total motor rebuild every 4-5 runs, lots of maintainence, more damage, the list of negatives goes on, but it is sweet fun.
When i can get hold of a HPI pinion, 65-70km/h will be in my sight (hopefully), i tried a 14 tooth pinion, but its too tall a gear ratio, and speed drops off to 49km/h.
The first tennis court run saw me lose 3 brand new alloy wheelnuts, and a GPM tyre (Dammit!!), losing a tyre sucks, now ive only got 3 GPM’s :sad:.
The tyres need to be glued on, because (even the hard tyres) stretch from centrifugal force, and will leave home and do the barry……
Quote:jamie whatever you did to your mini z do to mine and jarratts, i did give you a super bit char-g for your troubles 😉 Did you get the package and stuff alright?Barrelll: Its gonna cost more than that, like around $75 just in parts…..your car goes about 13km/h now, should be good for about 20km/h, maybe 30 with an X speed.
Ph2t: I’ll borrow a camera from school and see what i can do.
For all your info, it does steer (with the aid of a dirty big spoiler), quite well, i was absolutely exstatic when i completed it and threw it on the DYNO for a speed test, 58km/h with the 9 tooth pinion, tamiya plasma dash with ball bearings, 6×2 fet stack, 5 cell pack. Next up is an 11 tooth HPI pinion…..
As for braking, im a bit worried about blowing the FETs, because the motor draws around 10A at 5-6 volts.
Racing against bigger cars?? Im sure it would be competitive on a SMOOTHE surface, but one nudge from a 1/10 car and the Mini Z would be a gonner.
Autosalon, hmmm… its been on already this year, so maybe later down the track.
Aaron, i HOPE you vigourously cleaned your ESC in clean water afterwards???? One of my school teachers worked in the merchant NAVY, and they retrieved some electronic gear from a sunken ship. After cleaning it in clean pure H2O, it worked like a charm.
I do prefer electric cause i love the sound of an electric motor working hard (and not too noisily). My plasma dash sounds just like my kyosho 14T motor, that high pitched “Turbo” whine.
I think you will get a few complaints at the beach with a glow R/C…..and besides i’d prefer to go swimming/Surfing….and i am always on the lookout, cause im a surf life saver.
Quote:Quote:I always thought that the johnson 0.05 was meant to be equivalent to a 0.05 Glow Plug motor…..well thats the theory with “Astro” motors.Dunno about the Astros, but I think Johnson works on hp ratings.
Whereas the Mabuchi “540”… that’s its physical can’s dimensions.Nothing really relative to glow engines imho.
Glow engines are measured by capacity… a “21” is 0.21 cu.i = 3.5cc.I have an electric plane called a “buzzard”. The motor is….(can’t recall the brand, Cobalt or AstroFlight or something…) a .10, because its the equivalent power of a .10 glow plug motor.
The motor has Neodymium magnets and draws around 40A @ 14.4v, around 550W of power….just imagine this baby in an R/C car..
Wow i checked out the pics Aaron, seriously cool, almost shorted my keyboard 😯
Im in!!!!
I downloaded the video and couldnt wait to hear the little 103cc Flat 12 engine, but the damn video didnt work, tried it again and still no cigar, 100mb of download for nothing.
I agree he is probably mad, but a fucken genius
Fucken Hell i hafta get one now they look awesome, the Duke 999 is mine.
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