PandaBear

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by biggboy on 28October2002

Im sorry about your dealings with Jaycar maybe they had a off day?

Well, I had the blue with the MANAGER of the store, so if the MANAGER HIMSELF can behave like that then what hope does his underlings have of picking up better habits?? Gee whiz, I wouldn’t even treat a Dead Dog that bad.

Believe me or not, I’m actually a pretty easygoing guy.

[PandaBear]

Where do you race your MiniZ, Jamie? Some KMart you said…

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by L337_krew on 06October2002

i heard it goes 60km/h wen u get it out of the packet and u can upgrade it to like 90km is dat true?

Whoa… bad case of “shopkeeper kerfaffle” there. I’d like to see ANY car do 60 out of the box… even most nitro 1/10s barely do that. In a MiniZ… well, are you hoping on getting the car back in 1 piece?

I’ve spent a lot of time hanging around the RC retail trade, and the bull the folks generally feed to kiddies is simply mindboggling. (Heh heh heh… just keep a skeptical “yeah sure” mentality when shopping.) That said, you’ll soon realise most ppl can’t judge speed accurately anyway. Show them anything running over 30and they’ll think its 100+ already… makes retailer’s conjob real easy.

Have even seen 1 shop where they had stickers on the shelves: “top speed > 60kmh”, “80kmh”, “100+kmh”… and no, they won’t demonstrate. :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Dunno what the RTR mRS4 sells for locally, but Tower Hobbies sells it for US$199. Not too bad a deal for something fully bearinged, fully assembled and ready-to-run. 4WD also makes it a lot easier to drive – less donuts. They also use AAs for longer/cheaper running; AAA alkalines add up quickly.



And if you’ve still got cash to burn, the hopup potential is higher..!! :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 25October2002

i want to race aginst 1/10 and hpi cars….do i have a hope,or is it a lost cause?

Heh heh… you wanna what?? imho :

MiniZ:- no chance whatsoever, even the 20yo Tamtech Tamiyas seriously kick the Zed’s butt. Have played lots of other ppl’s Zeds over last 5 yrs but have no appetite to even buy one yet, too slow & boring… (but I see they’ve got a F40 now, so maybe chalk 1 up for this xmas).

HPI mRS4:- you have 1/2 a chance, if the big car doesn’t know how to drive. Out of box they’re dog slow (but I’m comparing to very high standards – Tamtech) but once you’ve got a good motor and any 7.2V source, you’ll be rocking. Only drawback is that the mRS4 isn’t cheap by this stage; you can probably buy a cheap entrylevel 1/10 for the same ~$400.

Then again, most of the gear (radio & esc) you can recycle later into 1/10 too whereas the Perfex system is useless outside of a MiniZ.

In any case, size is a huge advantage that is hard to overcome.

[PandaBear]

Funny you should mention… Kyosho has had 1/20 offroaders nearly 20 yrs ago now!! Dogbone drive to RWD, coilover shocks, double wishbone suspension.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 25October2002

I wish i was, i hate launceston

Oh come on, can’t be TOO bad…??! I know Melbourne ppl actually jump on that big boat to go holiday in Tassie!! :smiley3:Things always greener on the other side.

[PandaBear]

Yup, just buy a A$50 real thing locally. With the kit’s 2.2 its already way too fast for most track racing. Only drawbackis that there’s only 2 models, 2 colours and 2 frequencies; anything else and you’d need to import.

Think too about warranty… I just had to exchange 1 on Sat (faulty controller, wouldn’t charge) and being local + docket it was painless & quick. Have bought 10+, so 1 DOA isn’t too bad.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Caine on 26October2002

Only $2? Well as you can tell I dont know much about FF indoor flyers, the only ones I have seen are like on a retractable string.

Yep, definitely spot on. For $2 you wouldn’t even buy you enough fuel to start your Cox 0.49 :smiley3:for your control line flyer.

[PandaBear]

Wacky Racers? Or Penelope Pitstop? Here’s a mem jog:-

Chronology of Hanna-Barbera Studios

1957 The Ruff & Ready Show Premiere

1958 The Huckleberry Hound Show and Pixie & Dixie Premiere

1959 Auggie Doggie & Doogie Daddy, Quick Draw McGraw and Snooper & Blabber Premiere

1960 Yakky Doodle & Yogi Bear Premiere, The Flintstones Premieres On Primetime Television, Hokey Wolf and Snagglepuss Premiere

1961 Top Cat Premiere

1962 Lippy The Lion, Touche Turtle & Wally Gator Premieres and The Jetsons Premiere

1964 Magilla Gorilla, Peter Potamus, Richochet Rabbit, Breezly & Sneezly, Punkin Puss, Yippe, Yappee & Yahooey & The Adventures Of Jonny Quest Premieres

1965 Precious Pupp, The Hillbilly Bears, Secret Squirrel, Squiddly Diddly, Winsome Witch, Sinbad Jr., and Laurel & Hardy Premiere

1966 Space Kidettes, The Space Ghost, Dino Boy, Frankenstein Jr., and The Impossibles Premiere

1967 Abbott & Costello, The Herculoids, Samson & Goliath, The Fantastic Four Moby Dick, The Mighty Mightor, Birdman, The Galaxy Trio and Shazzan Premiere

1968 The Three Musketeers, The Arabian Knights, The Micro Ventures, The Adventures Of Gulliver, and The Wacky Races Premiere

1969 The Perils Of Penelope Pitstop, The Cattanooga Cats, Motormouse & Autocat, Scooby-Doo Where Are You?, Dastardly & Muttley In Their Flying Machines and Around The World In 79 Days Premiere

1970 Where’s Huddles?, The Harlem Globetrotters and Josie & The Pussycats Premiere

1971 Pebbles & Bamm Bamm, Help! Its The Hair Bear Bunch!, and The Funky Phantom Premiere

1972 Sealab 2020, Roman Holidays, Amazing Chan & The Chan Clan, and Wait Till Your Father Gets Home Premiere

1973 Jeannie, Speed Buggy, The Addams Family, Goober & Ghost Chasers, Inch High Private Eye, Butch Cassidy & The Sun Dance Kids, Superfriends and Peter Puck Premiere

1974 Hong Kong Phooey, These Are The Days, Devlin, Valley Of The Dinosaurs, Wheelie & The Chopper Bunch and Partridge Family: 2200 A.D. Premiere

1975 The Great Grape Ape Premieres

1976 Dynomutt, Dog Wonder, Jabberjaw, Mumbly and Clue Club Premiere

1977 The C.B. Bears, Shake, Rattle & Roll,Undercover Elephant, Heyyyyy, It’s The King, Wonder Wheels, Blast Off Buzzard, Captain Caveman & The Teen Angels and Posse Impossible Premiere

1978 The Three Robonic Stooges, The Galaxy Goof-Ups, The Galloping Ghost, The Buford Files, Godzilla, Jana Of The Jungle, The All-New Popeye Hour and Dinky Dog Premiere

1979 The New Shmoo, The Super Globetrotters, Casper & The Angels, The Thing and Scooby & Scrappy-Doo Premiere

1980 Drak Pack, Fonz & The Happy Days Gang and Richie Rich Premiere

1981 Astro & The Space Mutts, Teen Force, Crazy Claws, Kwicky Koala, Dirty Dawg, The Bungle Brothers, The Smurfs, Lavern & Shirley, Private Olive Oyl and The Trollkins Premiere

1982 Mork & Mindy, The Little Rascals, Pac-Man, Shirt Tales and The Gary Coleman Show Premiere

1983 The Dukes, Monchhichis and The Biskitts Premiere

1984 The Snorks, The Pink Panther & Sons and Challenge Of The GoBots Premiere

1985 Paw Paws and Galtar & The Golden Lance Premiere

1986 Pound Puppies, Wildfire and Foofur Premiere

1987 Sky Commanders and The Flintstone Kids Premiere

[PandaBear]

Dunno, maybe its too specialised for them. Is it same over in NZ?

I hate JAYCAR after how they treated me in Melbourne last time when I wanted to exchange their faulty lousy product. I swore never to go back since and when I get some time I’ll be putting in a major formal consumer complaint.

[PandaBear]

Ya, isn’t the big rings the ‘cabanossi’ – as in large cabana sausage??

Recipe:- BBQ Meat Lovers = ham, cabanossi, bacon, beef and pepperoni with BBQ sauce fromhttp://pizzahut.com.au/

Nope, no word of “crunchy brown beetle in crust” there!! :smiley11:

[PandaBear]

Hmm… what if one junked the big plastic buttons & the microswitches and replaced them with bigger toggle switches – 1 for each 2 microswitches… :smiley5:wonder what DSE has in stock.

[PandaBear]

We’re showing our age, Chris!! :smiley3:Betcha anyone who’s too young to drive today wouldn’t even know what SpeedRacer is all about… waaay beyond their time.

That said, I wouldn’t mind a Bit “Scooby Doo” Mystery Machine…

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by dafidav on 26October2002

it was a 40 mhz one but i put on the white skyline case on it

i did a led mod on it and i can’t charge it any more

when u put the car on, the led on the controller doesn’t go on

Is the LED connected to the battery, or is it powered by its own powersource?

If you had to connect it to the BCG battery… you might have busted some wire from battery contacts to the board.

To check if your TX charger is working… mine seems to flash its ‘charge’ LED for a splitsecond the moment you switch it on. If it doesn’t flash, but the car controls are still working then the charger is broken.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Trueno on 27October2002

Do these NiMH batteries have any negative effects?

Nup. Just twice the capacity in the same space; it should be a direct drop in replacement.

But its a DIY mod, so if you’ve got no confidence and you’re totally clumsy with huge hands, you *could* kill your Bit by opening it up. :smiley2:

Quote:

Originally posted by Trueno on 27October2002

Do these NiMH batteries have any negative effects? Also, do you just clip them onto the controller twice for a double charge?

Yup. Or there’s also a handy mod at QFM, which I’ve recently revised to make it even cooler… some pix coming soon (as soon as I’ve got them uploaded, soffy folks).

[PandaBear]

Post here a pix of what you’ve done, maybe…

btw the QFM & TinyRC pix is a little misleading. The battery terminals should NOT be polarised – ie they shouldn’t have +/- on them. If they do, then convention would expect to put the battery’s + with +, and – with – (like when you put a battery in anything else)… *NOT* as shown in the picture.

Use some common sense, follow the circuit through carefully and you’ll fix 99% of all faults like that.

[PandaBear]

Its not the voltage but the *current* that fries them… find out their maximum recommended current and if you just put a resistor inline with the LED it’ll be fine. Roughly speaking you need something about 330 ohms for 1.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by GT-ahh on 28October2002

it the ultraman cosmo car a jensen? it looks alot like one!

No its the 1967 Mazda Cosmo 110S… with a twin-rotor Wankel engine.

Seriously, its the only 1 out of the 3 which hasn’t been modded apart from the paintjob.

Check out the sales brochure, man – Groovy Baby!! http://www.eunos.com/keith/110S/1.html

[PandaBear]

I thought I’d investigate futher and pull apart a spareaxle (tnx Aaron):-

Wheel is attached to the axle firmly and has 2 pins sticking out, to engage the spurgear in 2 of the 6 holes on the gear.

If disengaged from the wheel, the gear itself is free to spin on the axle, it doesn’t grip the axle at all.

[PandaBear]

If there are 4 legs = 2 pairs, a ‘DP’ switch is 2 separate switches operated together in the 1 unit.

Make sure first that they *are* DP, then if they are you can only replace them with DP switches. You’ll need 4 jumpleads for each switch between the PCB and wherever you mount them.

[PandaBear]

I just blutacked it to the bonnet :smiley1:, don’t bother trying it – made no improvement at all.

[PandaBear]

Test the existing switches first, to see if its Single or Double Pole ‘DP’.

I was mucking about with an s-iron on the board on Fri night… I didn’t remove any switches entirely (I did resolder a few connections though) but I suspect there’s 2 circuits each switch that need closing – so you might need DP. There are also 4 distinct legs to each switch (2 pairs) which suggest DP.

Momentary switches are by definition “single throw” so they’re always ‘ST’. Although most are momentary-ON, sometimes there’s also mom-OFF ones just to annoy the heck out of us.

[PandaBear]

Guys… word of warning… DON’T MESS WITH THE BOOST CONTROLLER!!! :smiley15:

This beast is a total redesign from the previous non-boost REV03; nobody has fiddled anything with it yet nor do we have any schematics or circuit diagrams on it… so we’re all flying blind!! Are you actually *surprised* that it doesn’t work after snipping something off it??

There is definitely NO “cripplecap” linked between the aerial and ground lines anywhere &there is nothing that looks like its tacked on as an afterthought. In fact, there are some empty holes (eg C8) near the antenna wire where a cap could go… but there’s nothing there.

Range is approx same as my 27MHz Compact (approx 6-8′) and 35MhzBit and yes its far lower than my 40Mhz Compact (I’m getting 10-12′).

That said, these things aren’t rocket science. Just replace what you’ve snipped off and it *should* work again. If you’ve tossed the part just go buy another ceramic capacitor of the same value and solder it back on.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Trueno on 27October2002

why does it seem the booster cars go faster with “only” a 2.2?

CONFIRMED!! :smiley3:Big mystery!!

Ya, my G24 Booster 350Z also outdragged everything we had; all the other cars were also running on 2.2s on both 27 & 40, always charged with fresh AAs. Tried all 3 gear ratios too (vs orange in 350Z), didn’t help. Tried a orange 2.6 motor too – not much better, Zed still creamed. Age of cars didn’t matter either… we had everything from brandnew (1hr old, about 10 charges), used-n-rebuilt (new cell & motor) and well-used (6 wks old).

Zed’s motor is a standard yellow 2.2 with std orange gears.

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