betty.k
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not sure how tall, see if this helps:
yeah, i still got a pinion puller and a tamiya checker :8ball:
i got an iwaver subaru bod doing nothing, will that do? :8ball:
sounds adventurous! keep us posted and get some pics:smiley16: :8ball
looks cool!:topstuff: :8ball:
dude! sweet!:topstuff:
that’s one dopin’ sled you got there bl! :8ball:
kevsta wrote:How about an internet cafe in close proximity to where back packers usually stay. Do xbox 360 modchip installs on the side and run a z track/racing.That would be fun…
for maybe a week!
definately get outta canberra, the only thing going for that place is porn and fireworks. you don’t seem like a porn kinda guy to me and i’m sure you’ve blown up everything you could want to by now!
i got a spare room if ya interested:D :8ball:@leon: ph2t tells me it’s from some kinda computer part, he got it from a friend. :8ball:
hells yeah it’s tough, in fact they both are! we were smacking into trees in mid air and everything! only casualties were a lost body clip and a screw. although i’m yet to look at the servo saver, probably wore it out!:D :8ball:
try a little dab of oil on the motor bushings;) :8ball:
cool! that should cover my 8 ball hosting for the year!:D :8ball:
funny you mention this, i went fan shopping at jaycar yesterday!
then ph2t turned up with a tiny 20 x 20 x 10mm fan strapped to the motor of his evo!:Dso what exactly did you wanna know?
where to buy? online hobby shops usually stock them, i can only guess that local hobby shops have em too. or electronics shops (like jaycar) or computer suppliers/repairers. :8ball:i would look at this as an opportunity, it’s easy to get stuck in a rut.
seems like you need to break free for a while, i say go for it!:beer:
but not for too long, or you’ll end up a full of 😉 lazy arse like my last housemate:smiley11: :8ball:
that soldering aint so bad, want me to get a pic of my “clifford the cricket” for ya?:D
i’m still not sure (i’m no techo) but it’s often worth asking the obvious questions.
are these specifically evo fets you used?
there is a difference between evo fets and all other fets (i waver, mini z, 1st gen xmod), so if you didn’t use the right ones then they won’t work.and as panda mentioned, overheating these components will kill them:8ball:
dunno if i have any answers but a good pic might help.
and don’t worry about joining in more, we’re all idiots in our own little way:smiley8: :8ball:
welcome aboard!
the first thing i’d check is the trims on the tx, make sure they’re centered.
fiddle with the throttle trim until the motor turns forward, then back it off until it stops and is quiet.if the steering is still off center you may need to adjust the trimpot on the pcb (see attached pic) until the steering is mostly centered. then fine tune with the steering trim on the tx.
TX= transmitter
RX= reciever
REV= servo reverse (if the steering is backwards then turn rev “on” for ch1, same for throttle, ch2)
MDL= model (a group of settings)
EPA= end point adjustment (individually adjust l/r steering travel, f/r throttle)
ABS= anti-lock braking system (ignore this, it don’t work on the iwII tx:dissapprove: )
NAME= 3 character name for each model
CH= channel (ch1 = steering. ch2 = throttle. ch3 =?:huh: )see how that works out for ya and keep us posted :8ball:
g’day bludy yank, thanks for the input!:thumbs_up:
there’s not too much worry about “flame wars” and such down here, us aussies are too lazy to get involved in a fight!:big: :8ball:
i’ve owned xmods, mr01’s and currently drive a mr02. i’ve also driven xmod evos and a 4wd mini z.
what you plan to do with your 1:28 ultimately determines which one is best for you.
for what i do (hard concrete/tarmac racing) the kyosho mr02 is unbeatable and always will be:worship:
i personally am surprised at kyosho for the unintelligent design of the 4wd. try all you like but you’ll never convince me that the batteries on one side makes it drive evenly.:thumbs_down:
if i wuz magic i’d wish up an xmod evo built with kyosho quality control;) :8ball:
not 100% sure but it’s considerable.
double check the tutorial at http://www.woahnelly.com/
i think you need at least a 3 x 2 stack of good fets to cope with it. or a nelly or a spider:topstuff: :8ball:i definately gotta use digital servos with the fm 27mhz hrs module/rx. there’s lotsa great big warnings in the manual about how regular analogue servos will catch fire, etc! i’m not willing to chance it.
no matter, i got digi servos coming and with the am 27mhz module i’m able to run what i own.
in the manual it says i may be able to program my esc through the rx but maybe not due to a clash in frequency between the hrs rx and regular esc.
if that happens there is a special feature of the tx where i can program the esc directly from the tx using the dsc.so, as i wuz asking before, do you think the tip on that 3.5mm phono plug is the red wire?:8ball:
yeah, wassup wi’ dat?
i sent them an email about it a few days ago, they say they are having trouble displaying kyosho products.
exactly what that means is anyone’s guess.they do still have kyosho stuff, they sell it on their ebay store and i got an order recently which included a kyosho white body.
i only found the link to the bodies by following a link in the “people who bought this also bought” section.i’m nervous, if they stop stocking kyosho stuff then i’m screwed!:shock: :8ball:
i saw these previewed at a toy fair somewhere a little while back.
i think it’s the first 1:18ish offroad nitro on the market but not sure.going by the pics and the hype i think these could actually be good!:)
but don’t let the size fool you, it will cost the same as a 1:10+ to run!:dead: :8ball:with power like that, who needs smooth?!:evil: :8ball:
did some more upgrading:smiley2:
got a kyosho skeleton chassis, according to the description it’s purple. that’s the pinkest purple i’ve ever seen! makes it look like some sorta weird miniz candy!
i got a set of the atomic chrome finish rims for the front so they match the gandini’s a little better, they look great in person.
i’m trying out 30 degree kyosho tyres on the front now, they seem to give me the right amount of grip and slip. coupled with the gpm 3 degree alloy knuckles i can hold a faster corner now.
i also lashed out and bought a full titanium screw set! the weight saving is minimal (1.2 g), i just wanted something fancy!:D
so then i bought a topcad hex driver set so i didn’t have to stuff around with allen keys.but wait, that’s not all!
picked up a futaba 3pk with a 27mhz am module so now i’m in total control!:topstuff: :8ball:
mini x’s are made from polycarbonite, like lexan:topstuff: :8ball:
those lanciers look hot! shame it won’t fit a mm 02.:(
or will it……:8ball:
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