micro_Amps
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Not yet mate, I’ve been working on some other internet based projects, that you will see soon.
The cells in the ZZ SEs pretty much need to stay put, its such a tight squeeze in there that you’d be luck to get anything else into it.
An extra cell would have to go outside anyway.
The only other cell option I could suggest is a LiPo cell that sits on top of the pcb, but that would be a tight squeeze too.
:)uANot yet mate, I’ve been working on some other internet based projects, that you will see soon.
The cells in the ZZ SEs pretty much need to stay put, its such a tight squeeze in there that you’d be luck to get anything else into it.
An extra cell would have to go outside anyway.
The only other cell option I could suggest is a LiPo cell that sits on top of the pcb, but that would be a tight squeeze too.
:)uASince my last post I had a think about the enertec circuit (sad hey, I have no life) and I now have another idea for a fet mod, leave it with me and I’ll see if I cant breathe some life into these cars.
:)uAAre these sets going to come out in the mass market, or just in ones and twos???
:)uAI’ve been looking through ebay fairly regularly over the last 3 or 4 months, and it almost seems cyclical, sellers start to build up for a few weeks, then it drops by half, then it builds up over a few weeks again, then drops, and so on.
I wonder whether Tomy is sending a round of emails once a month to keep things at bay?
:)uAAnd be careful not to bend the rear axel, they bend easier than you think and are difficult to straighten.
I think QFM has a tute on this, when you trim the rear wheels, use the extra bits on the front wheels to space them out from the knuckles.I just tried to link to the QFM site, have they shutdown??
:)uA
Fet cars, best options….
4.2 king, excellent, sometimes a little fragile though, tend not to last a long time.
perfection 3.8s, a little slower but seem to be more reliable in the long run.
The high speed ZipZap motors are also very good and torquey when used at higher voltages and fet modded cars.
I havent tried the R-spec and F34s, if you do, post some results.
:)uAYes, welcome Betty.K
As far as I know, schematics for this one are not on the net.
They are designed around a Pericom chipset, which ups the difficulty level for mods from the outset.The only (partial) diagram I have for this one is the one I have hand drawn whilst modding. The drive circuit is a pain in the arse, the ‘boost’ speed uses a fet (switched on by the turbo signal) to bridge out the transistors in the forward circuit of the H-bridge, thats part of the reason it doesnt have 2 speeds in reverse. No joy with mods on this on really, just enjoy it the way it is. Or get into it yourself and draw out the circuit, its not that hard really.
Goodluck
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 24 October 2003 02:26:51
We had a thread on this not to long ago, but I jus re-read thru it and not alot came out of it.
There was one good idea work a try, it was posted by b007a, ….
To fix the split lip … try this.Drill a very small hole on either side of the slot. Use a small bit … I found one at the hardware store in a hand drill in the welding supply area. Not sure what the drill is used for but within the drill handle are a bunch of small drill bits … about the size of ones used to drill holes for PCBs. The hand drill looks like an Exacto knife.
Anyway … put a wire through the holes and twist to bring the split together.
NOW, if you drill too far forward then the body will not go on and if you drill too far back the heatsink lip will catch the wire (or not go in at all).
I have not tried my own advice, as I have not split the lip on any chassis, yet.
Sound like it could work.
:)uAWas the controller exactly the same? I’m thinking it might have been an Enertec car, they came in blue and black WRXs but the controller looked completely different
:)uAGood stuff Jamie.
I havent picked up on this topic previously.
Good to see you pushing the envelope just a bit further.Tamiya speed checkers are quite good, I use it for BCG speeds too.
There’s one for sale on ebay right now, only US$10
ebay link to speed checker
:)uAHere is a link to how its done. I’m sure ph2t can do it for you if you wanted.
Go to Bitmod.tk , then click on Electroniktuning, then scroll down to “1 more channel function for BCG booster”.
You will need to ‘babelfish’ it to translate it, but its all there.
Sorry I cant put a direct link in, I’m not sure why but it doesnt work, maybe because its a .tk, (??)
:)uAbecoming ???? man I’ve been there for years :smiley2:
Well, no-one else shifts things around, so I thought I’d use this as ‘training’.
This thread has pretty much been answered anyway, thanks to you MS-Charged.
:)uAQuote:Would you add a switch to the controller or is it when you push the boost would it go on?Yep, add a switch to the controller, and some components to the Rx pcb and there you have it, an extra r/c function.
:)uAShould make this a poll…
Um, the 350Z for me.
Why, its a booster, love the shell, 57MHz seemed the mose successful in terms of range.
I just bloody like them.
:)uAQuote:This should be moved to General Discussion too if any admins are reading through, eh. =o)Yep, done:)uA
Just off the topic a little….
Whilst having a look around I noticed that Aaron has ‘souped up’ the site statistics page as well.
Good stuff, if your into stats that is.
:)uAGuys, those comments of mine were of course very much tongue in cheek.:p:smiley2::D
Nothing like that will ever happen here. (I hope)
:DuAEdited by – micro_Amps on 23 October 2003 11:50:05
No problem Ads, always happy to help, nice work on the charger too BTW.
LiPo / LiIons come in 3.6 and 3.7 volt cells. The most important part is to have the charging settings correct. Constant current up to 4.2v and hold at 4.2 until charging current reduces to zero.
Maximum recommended charging current is 1C, but I have seen 2C with out problems, ANY heat when charging is over charging, so reduce current.
A good LiPo/NiMH/NiCd combo charger is a real asset.
You probably know all this stuff anyway
:)uANope sorry, wasnt me on the bonzer mat review.
And just FYI, the newer versions of the Gen1 ZipZaps also now have a ‘sprung’ front suspension, works very well too.
PM me if you could get one for me, I’d be very interested.
Thanks,
:)uAJeff, the problem with the 4 B controller is that the aerial is too short and droops down too much. Once you replace the aerial with a telescopic aerial that is straight and sits high, the range will be better than a standerd controller. I have been controlling micro rc cars and planes in an indoor triple basketball court, and the controller has no problem reaching inside the entire building.
As far as conpatibility with the 4 B goes, heres a rough list…
BCG, no problem, obviously
LXX, standard and typeR, no problem at all
ZipZap (Gen1) works but F/B reversed
H1 Hummer, works but F/B reversed
clones, most are ok
Enertec cars, no go at all
HSV cars (AU only) no go,
minimicro racers? (Jaycar cars) no go.Perhaps people can add others…..
The only problem with the 4B, is that it doesnt have 40MHz and 49Mhz, although I suppose it is just a matter of changing the crystals and the inductances in the controller then it would work on the other channels too.
:)uAFantastic ph2t, love it.
There is the extra function on the booster pcbs (F1) that could be used to turn the coplights on and off from the controller too.
That would be cool. (and ah, a siren? too)
:)uACool, thanks TB
The bodies look pretty good, controllers are a bit spaced out though.
Single coil and 2 magnets for steering, sounds interesting.
Thats not a bad price for the whole lot, so long as the quality is close to ZZs.
Any chance you could help me acquire one of these TB?
:)uAhehehe, smart arse panda,
*micro chooses a pen out of his pocket protector* and… *poke* blackeye:
Just kiddin’ :smiley2:Aaron, you better bloody believe it, in a few weeks time I’ll have this place ship shape. Time for some cleanup. The new guard is IN !
No more smart comments, people will be banned all over the place, a warning meter will be put on everyboby’s posts, and any guff toward the moderators will not be tolerated. From now on, three strikes and you’re out, I’ve got a few scores to settle, for example…
Spelling mistkaes and you’re banned!
SMS speak and you’re banned!
Incorrect punctuation and you’re banned!
Short posts, like “Yeah I know…” , get out!!! you’re banned
And then there’s …..
*MicroAmps turns blue and falls over*
:sad:uAAncient history guys.
Its the reason BitChar-g sellers dropped of off all of a sudden on ebay about 6 months ago.
Alot got stern warnings of copyright infringement penalties and stopped selling.
I believe Bithed was caught up in this too, when ebay and paypal supported Tomys cause and stopped transactions of BCG sales.
Seens to have died down a bit now though, and many sellers ahve returned to ebay as well.
:)uA -
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